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1969 Allis Chalmers B10 "please help"

4

4BanginRanger

New User
I'm restoreing a 69 AC B10, the magneto went out so i replaced it cost $80 :( anyways the new one has little and very often no spark, i went up to my local repair shop and they wont take the magneto back. my tractor didnt have points on it when i got it but do i need them? i've rewired all my grounds and sanded the block and magneto but still very little spark... the gap was set with a busines card, is that ok? is there anythig i missed :?: [/img][/quote]
 
The gap may be a bit to wide. The new one should have come with a gauge to gap it with. Try gapping with a piece of printer paper and see if that helps.
I did one years ago around 1997 and they were only $30.00.
 
i would think printer paper would be to thin, i use to use a matchbook until the guy at the shop said to use a business card. my 10horse is hard to find parts for period. i've alway just swaped magneto's untill my buddy blew his motor up doing so, with this being as rare as it is i didnt want to test my luck... so ive been using number matching parts since.
 
I wasn't saying it was going to be perfect but to try it ans see how it runs. You can always increase it a sheet at a time until you get good results.
 
I did some looking around and found alot of sources saying for a Briggs engine the air gap should be right around 0.010 of an inch.

Post later how you made out.
 
im ganna go tomarro to get a gapper and a spark tester. its only got one plugin on the magneto, i ran it to my off switch. that was right :?:
 
It all depends on what type of coil you bought weather or not you need points. The engine you have originally had points. If you're using a point type coil, you need good points and condenser. If the points are bad or condenser is weak, so will be your spark. Every Briggs coil I have bought has had an instruction card that doubles as the gap gauge. As you found out, sanding any rust off the flywheel has absolutely no effect on operation.
 
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