W.C.(unstyled) gov. troubleshooting

Mlpankey, or anyone with input,mlpankey after talkin at ya last night I worked on gov. again today I cant say I really accomplished much. I put the insp. cover back on an ran the thing a short while without the rad. on so I could play around with the thing and try a few things. I removed the spring from inside and checked it over real good it seems to be fine no weak spots or anything the holes it hooks in aint elongated or nothing, when I reach in and flare the wieghts with finger or screwdriver the thrustbearing or collar slides on the shaft and moves cross-shaft which moves carb linkage. It appears that the thing works fine when I move the throttle lever WITHOUT the tractor runnin. Now when I start the tractor I can open up on throttle lever from the seat and tractor will come up like its suppose to and when I back off the throttle lever she idles back down but not as low as it should. When I reach around and shut the throttle by grabbin the carb linkage and manually pushin back shut then it will open up again with the hand throttle like it should. Sooo, in other words it seems the thing will work once then after I back off the throttle and open her up again it wont come back up a second time( unless I reach around and close the carb by hand.) I was wonderin on this zenith if ther should be a return spring on the carb linkage some where. There never was anything that I saw on it before and gov. worked fine I did however have to pull carb to fix a leaky float and have had this trouble every since. On the carb where the carb rod goes into the small hole on the butterfly valve there is another small hole where a spring COULD hook and a fellow could put a spring on it. It would probly need to be a small weak spring just to return the carb rod back to the idle stop. I ran out of time today and will try this test tommorow. Thanks for any suggestions. Hoss

yes you can add a spring if you look in the i t manual you will see they had an optional spring that went to the water drain plug on side of block to the carb rod . the spring was intended to keep the gov from surging. did the coils on the spring touch each other when you had it out if it was slightly stretch it could keep the shaft from rotating downward and pulling the carb rod back to the idle stop screw. other than that im at a loss on what else it could be if the carb rod and throttle to gov rod is adjusted . you could loosen the adjustment screw that allows you to shorten or lengthen rod from throttle lever to gov arm and see if arm on gov side moves toward radiator any.

just had a revelation after reveiwing youre post and my answere . its verry possible the fork is worn and needs shimmed.

Mlpankey, Yes the coils all touched and when i removed the spring and plunger for insp. all looked good. I gave spring a good tug with screw drivers in the ends like we talked of an she was good an stout. I will double check the linkage adj. tomorrow, but I cant believe this would a problem on account of this just happened after sittin in the barn all winter.(It worked fine when I put her to bed last fall)But a feller has to cover all the bases.Ill fetch me a new "gov." spring from the hardware store and give it a try.I'll keep ya posted. Thanks Hoss

Your cross shaft is sticking slightly, spray the outer end with WD-40, and work it back and forth, this is the biggest cause of Allis governors going lazy after the tractor has been sitting for some time. If it worked fine last fall, and nothing is broken, then something is sticking.

The spring that went on the water drain to carb was to keep the choke off while farming. not to throtle butterfly. Rene'

Thanks guys, All the suggestions are always a big help.It gives a fella a place to start when trouble shootin these ol gals. A special thanks goes out to mlpankey for goin above an behond. Ill continue to plug away(process of elimination)takin one component at a time. Will keep ya's posted. Again thanks, Hoss

Hoss with the linkage unhooked from carb, open throttle lever, and also hold carb wide open. The gov rod should just go in carb arm hole. If it won't AC had you bend the gov output arm with a special tool. It is easier to make the connecting rod adjustable then you can fine tune the length. Remember the gov only has about 1 inch of travel and if the carb is not in time with gov it is working but not able to slow down engine.

Fellas, I replaced the gov. spring with one that was maybe 1/16th shorter just enough to tighten it up a bit and also placed a very small "return" spring on the carb butterfly to bring it back to idle stop screw. I put rad. an hoses back on so I could drive the ol gal around a bit an she does have more throttle range but still aint right. I think when I get a day off next week Ill have to pull the gov. out and inspect. mlpankey if your readin I think your on the track with the ramps on the back of flyweights bein worn or mayme the pin holes on the wieghts havin slop in the holes,even though the ol gal will now pull the big hill behind the barn the gov. is sluggish at best. As near as I can tell from the insp. cover in the front the dadgum pilot bearing aint slinging out against the crossshaft fork to return the carb butterfly to idle stop screw and I think pullin the gov. out is gona be the only way I can get a good look at these weights from the back an check them out good. I checked with AGCO dealer an he says he can still get the weights for 37' WC. again thanks to all who gave suggestions. Hoss