|Project Journal - D14 engine removal|
||D14 engine removal
|Expand/Contract all Journal Entries Show newest journal entry on top|
| 09:35 05/19/09 Why?|
|I was out bush-hogging with the D14 (immortalized in the YT icon to the left, shown if no photo is included ;-)). I'd run it up a long hill and then ran it for a couple of hours cutting more than grass, lots of relatively small alders and maples too plus blackberries and wild rose. It was at the limits of the bush hog razor I was using. Got the tractor a bit hot and when I got back down to the house, I noticed it wasn't running well. I checked the oil and found it was more coolant than oil. Pulled the head and assumed a head gasket. Replacement didn't help. Decided to drain it, dry it out and then take a closer look. After it sat dry with the pan off, I found that one sleeve appeared to have the issue. While I thought about doing it in-frame, the crankshaft was making enough noise that it seemed more logical to pull it. A full rebuild/resleeve seems in order.|
| 09:51 05/19/09 Pulling off the small stuff|
|I pulled the hood, hood channel, battery connections and battery, carb, manifold, head for the second time and laid it all out carefully on the ample space in my shop. This can be quite the problem as far as losing stuff depending on how much time you have to work on the machine. YT and the farm keep me too busy to ever get too much time so I assume that whatever bench space I take, is reserved for the long term. Then I organize the systems into groupings of parts. Age seems to have an impact on that sure feeling you get that "Oh yeah, I can remember where that goes" ;-). |
Just took a couple of shots but basically, about 15 feet of bench space may not be used for anything other than the waiting parts. Might note that means not using the lathe in the background!
| 10:20 05/19/09 Supporting the machine|
|This is about the most critical safety issue in removing a tractor engine. I've had small lighter machines with no weights and unfilled rears get pretty light and skittish on the floor if I didn't have good blocking and stable mid support. Makes engine and front axle assembly unsafe. The D14 has three quarter filled rears and quarter round large wedge weights on 11.9x26s which creates a lot of stability. It also helps to have a lot of mid-section weight from the dual range power director. This blocking doesn't do the trick well and I kept the period while the front axle was loose to a minimum. I also stay out of the way for anywhere it might come over. |
The photo show two angle iron supports under it, weight equally distributed. I think I'd prefer square blocking of timbers I normally use. The ideal would have been to put these massive angle iron pieces running longwise I think. I lucked out and it didn't come down.
| 10:33 05/19/09 Pulling it|
|The D14 is a little different than some of it's peers since the engine is not a stressed member. It has a bracket connecting it to the frame and you can't remove the engine without disconnecting the front axle. It's pretty unlikely to bring the engine forward enough to clear the shaft without removing the front support, pulling the bracket out from the steering shaft and then sliding the engine forward. This is the high risk moments of the job. |
But once you have the engine out, the front support can go on and the tractor is sound again and can even be rolled out of the shop while you rebuild.
You can see it while the front support is loose and free. The tie rods can be damaged if you don't have the lift right at the time the support is pulled off. Don't want the front too high in the air. I stuck to barely raising it enough to take some of the weight off the fronts.
|Forgot to mention, intentionally didn't pull the tie rods. They hold support and axle together for that just in case. They also can be badly damaged if they serve as a safety net.|
| 10:37 05/19/09 Out and on the floor|
|Here it is on the floor. Should have gone directly to the engine stand but didn't have time at the moment. You can make out the surface rust by the number one. That's where the leak in the sleeve seems to be. It also shows how long it took me to get around to getting it out. It's sadly not a head gasket issue, it's probably time for a complete rebuild kit.|
|Your blog looks great!|
|Now if I'd just get the engine rebuilt.... should happen about as fast as this blog software.|
|Complete rebuilds are fun. Looks like a good animal to start with.|
|I actually have another D14 that was supposed to be in line in front of it. After a few years, I've realized YT is not going to let me do that one.|
|Chris, Journal blog looks interesting. One bad thing is that pics are so small, cannot see details. Hope you get 'er done over the winter.|
|SweetFeet, if you click on the date/time, it will expand the the photo. I kept my photo sizes pretty small though and we do shrink them if they are too large.|
| 08:51 08/21/09 No work yet|
|Since the original tear down, I never had time to rebuild it. I ended up reassembling the front end so it could be moved around the shop when I needed the space.|
| 18:18 10/06/10 Finally ordering the parts|
|I will be starting a new blog to document my rebuild. The engine has sat for many years now, very rusty. I'm going to place my order this month.|
| 08:28 06/14/17 Update|
|I just realized the date didn't get updated on the previous entry, so I'm putting in another just to show the actual date I'm ending this and putting in my new build journal. I have badly missed having the D14. It is a solid wide track with the wheels spun out, and cross hills are way safer than my narrow modern compact or my AC B. It's also just handy to have multiple running tractors.|
I decided that a new crank is in order so I can start the machine over with standard bearings and straight crank journals. From the time I bought this machine in the 90s, it had that low deep clunk for a bad crank anyway.
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