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Project Journal - Ford power steering repair
Handle: Ultradog MN  
Project Name: Ford power steering repair  
Tractor: 1955 - 196  
Started: 02:05 03/05/17  
Updated: 03:38 03/05/17  
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03:38 03/05/17

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03:38 03/05/17

 03:38 03/05/17  Ford 4 cylinder power steering
It is very common for leaks to occur in the power steering columns of these tractors. This is caused by seal failure.
The good news is they are very easy to repair. The bad news is you have to pull the tin off to get at the steering column.
First we will purge all of the old oil out of the system.
Start the tractor and crack the hydraulic lines that go to the cylinders.
Turn the wheel back and forth. Add fresh hyd oil as needed to get all the old stuff out of there.
Yes it makes a mess everywhere.
Remove the steering wheel.
Remove the tin.
Mark the hydraulic lines that go to the steering cylinders so you can get them back in the correct locations.
Remove the upper column tube #46.
Remove big nut, spring washer and upper bearing and races #31,42,43.
Remove the hydraulic block taking great care to not let the plungers, springs and balls fall out on the floor as you remove it #34.
Remove the lower adapter #29.
Now clean everything up.
Install new lower seal #28.
Spring side of seal goes up.
Install new upper seal #44.
Spring side goes down.
In a seperate small pan disassemble the hydraulic block. I use lacquer thinner for this. Remove all the plungers, springs and balls and the center spool. Remove any rust with crocus cloth or a Purple 3M scrubber pad. The purple ones are fairly soft. Get them at a body shop supply.
Green scrubber pads are too aggressive.
Inspect all 3 springs. Make sure they are not bent or broken.
Now is the time to decide if you want to do the whole job and not half of it.
Remove the lower steering box from the tractor clean out all the oil and crud in the bottom, inspect the sector gears, renew loose bushings, renew sector seals and inspect the bearing in the very bottom of the housing. I recommend you do but that's your call.
Getting back to the column here,
Install new paper gasket #24.
Install lower adapter with new seal.
Bolt it down.
Install lower bearing and races.
Install new Oring #32.
Lightly grease and reinstall center spool into hydraulic block. Inner groove on spool goes to bottom.
Set the block on column. See photo. Note that the extra fitting is on right side at top.
Now we will load the plungers.
Notice the hole that the pencil points to.
Install one special plunger with horns up.
Install 2 balls. Install second special plunger horns down.
Install one ordinary plunger, then one spring, then a second ordinary plunger in all three of the other holes.
Now install upper races, bearing, spring washer (curved down) and nut. Tighten nut down till the spring washer is completely flat - not too tight - then back it off 1/6 turn.
Now take a small punch and "stake" the thin upper part of the nut into the groove on the shaft. This is important as it keeps the nut from loosening.
Install another Oring #32 on top of the hydraulic block.
Install the upper tube being careful not to damage your new seal.
Bolt it down.
Reinstall all 6 hydraulic lines.
Add fresh oil to the reservoir.
I use 134 D oil - same Hytrans or UTF you use in your transmission and rear end.
Start the tractor and test your work before you put all the tin back on.
Now go have a cold one as you've earned it.

19:11 07/16/17
Excellent write-up. I really like this sort of thing, because when you need it, it's a Godsend.
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