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Project Journal - WD to Dxx Toolbox
Handle: YTSupport  
Project Name: WD to Dxx Toolbox  
Tractor: AC Dxx  
Started: 10:00 09/06/17  
Updated: 08:07 09/17/17  
Expand/Contract all Journal Entries   Show oldest journal entry on top
 08:07 09/17/17  D10/D12
Of all the luck, I have need of doing this same process for the D10 Series III and a D12 prior to series III. It turns out this same tool box works great for those models too. What you will find is that the box is deeper than the stock D10/D12 tool box. Unless you are planning to restore to perfect originality, this box fits and works fine like the originals for those models. The only difference is that the mounting holes must be drilled lower on the box to avoid having it touch the seat mount studs. I'll be providing the measurements for that, but if you happen to do it before I get around to it, just use the same process I did to locate the right mounting holes. Since there were different fender arrangements on the various D10/D12 models, you may get by with no drilling on earlier models.

To be continued...
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10:32 09/06/17

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10:32 09/06/17

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10:32 09/06/17

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10:32 09/06/17

 10:32 09/06/17  Aftermarket Toolboxes
We, and several other sites, sell WD toolboxes for the Allis Chalmers D Series tractors. The fact is that the WD toolbox was the same part number on those machines and they are the same box. The D-series, like the D14, D15, and D17s, all were fitted with that tool box, only there is a difference. When AC put them on a D-Series, they drilled two additional holes.

In the first photo, you can see the havoc wreaked by years of one of my D14s toolboxes rotting away. The other was like that too only worse. It's shown in the second photo and you'll notice it looks shorter than the replacement tool box. That is because on that one, the bottom was completely rotted off, and about 20 years ago, I cut the rot off and put in a new bottom which left it missing a couple of inches depth. Unfortunately, even after sandblasting and painting, the rot resumed, and this time, after I pulled it off to refurb again, new rust holes had appeared. I decided break down and replace it, so I bought our D14 tool box. Since it was so short, it was less original than the replacement would be.

In the second photo, you'll notice that two holes are missing in the backside of the replacement. The WD didn't need those holes. I measured the layout and came up with the following center points for drilling them.

The horizontal positions are:
1 3/16s from the right of the back of the box
8 5/8s from the right of the back of the box

The vertical distance down to the other centerpoint is:
3 1/2 from the top of the box.

I just used a carpenters square to mark them, then center-punched and drilled a pilot hole. Then I took the only 3/4 inch drill bit I had and hogged them out. Frankly, the right tool is a 3/4 inch hole saw even though it will destroy it by the time you're done. Using the regular S and D bit, left a mess on the backside that had to be chiseled out and then filed. But it all worked out. You can see the results in the 3rd photo.

When you do yours, take measurements and make certain yours will fit. What you don't want to do is drill too high up on the box. If you do, your box will ride on the wheel guard mounting bolts and vibrate as you work your tractor.

Since the paint provided is only acceptable for a working tractor in the field (there is no way it can exactly match your tractors color), I then took the paint off and primered it with filler primer, just to be sure that when I paint it, I'll get a nice glassy finish.

They are a great facsimile of the original box, stronger hinge (which is not original), but that won't be noticed except by an expert. The original hinges had a tendency to bow the lid over time. These shouldn't do that.

Now I have a brand new home for the mice ;-).
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