Welcome! Please use the navigational links on your left to explore our website.

Company Logo Shop Now
   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts

Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Tractor Town
Your Stories
Show & Pull Guide
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs

Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

Related Sites
Tractor Shed
Ford 8N/9N Club
Today's Tractors
Garden Tractors
Kountry Life

Article Comments
Comments for 75 Tips
Add to these Comments

Dell (WA) wrote on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 (PDT):
  • An excellent compendium of practical troubleshooting tips. READ'EM.........Dell (WA) 15-mins of fame
    DENIS ST FRANCOIS wrote on Monday, October 09, 2006 (PDT):
  • thank you for the info, I have also just purchased a 1950 8n #284166 that needs a lot of TLC. It is all parted and I am rebuild it.
    Les Blough wrote on Thursday, November 02, 2006 (PST):
  • I just read this excellent collection of information - after the purchase of my 1952 8n. Now I'm printing it out and it will go into my "book". Thanks very much for taking the time to do this - very helpful.
    David Terry wrote on Thursday, December 21, 2006 (PST):
  • Great article. Lots of good tips. Dave
    Chris wrote on Sunday, December 24, 2006 (PST):
  • Excellent list of items to check. Some apply to more than just the N. Thanks.
    Dave Cox wrote on Saturday, February 17, 2007 (PST):
  • I got my 8n stuck in a bad snow drift and now it only turns to the right and will not turn to the left,do you know how the steering works or what I need to do to fix this
    tractorjunky wrote on Tuesday, February 27, 2007 (PST):
  • this is great for the novice thank you for allthe tips much apprecatied no spell ck used. my son just bought a 9n with sherman trans he says it is tops ill give this to him for his toy no name for it .but give it sometime thank you again don tx.
    BLinWMi wrote on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 (PDT):
  • interesting list, should be handy for an N owner, but I have to disagree with one of the points made. Number 11 is actually the worst thing to do, by trying to move the tractor backwards with frozen tires, you are more likely to have the front end come up. going forward with frozen tires pushes the front end down, not up.
    John Kopchik wrote on Wednesday, April 04, 2007 (PDT):
  • Some good tips, helpful for me, as I am not that familiar with the Ford Tractor family.
    Don McAtee wrote on Sunday, April 22, 2007 (PDT):
  • Response to BLinWMi on the frozen tire comment. The tractor wants to rotate opposite to the wheels. If the tires will not rotate, the force on the axle is enough to lift the front end. In reverse, torque on the rear wheels is forcing down on the front wheels. Same is true of pulling a heavy load with the attachment point below the axle. Wheels will spin or the front end comes off the ground. If the attachment point is above the axle, the front wheels are lifted easily due to the leverage factor.
    Jerry Wi wrote on Friday, April 27, 2007 (PDT):
  • Thanks for this information. It is a nice handy reference for some of the most FAQ that come up. You have done N owners a great service in putting this together. Thank you.
    russ b wrote on Sunday, June 24, 2007 (PDT):
  • Item #8, The muffler clamp has a big side and a small side,.... Muffler clamp is probably not the most accurate. I think Header pipe clamp is more accurate. But, most everyone seems to know what you mean. This site is a great resource, the best. Kind Regards, russ
    Gary wrote on Monday, September 03, 2007 (PDT):
  • Hi Bruce, thanks for taking the time to share your hard earned wisdom. I just bought an 8N from a knucklehead and I think I have a lot of tinkering to do before I can put my wife to work on it, just kidding honey . Gary
    Bruce VA wrote on Saturday, September 08, 2007 (PDT):
  • Fellow YT Board member John Smith advises that the brass elbow referenced in tip # 46 is not a standard hardware/plumbing item. The threads in the head are a 14mm straight thread. When I got my brass elbow. I took the compression gauge w/ me matched it directly.
    Jonathan Kuehne wrote on Wednesday, September 19, 2007 (PDT):
  • GREAT article!! Thanks for saving a newbie some potential pain!!
    Brian Hall wrote on Saturday, October 27, 2007 (PDT):
  • Your comments are wonderful and I for one will put them to good use. I just acquired a 9n and your information will come in handy. It has problems! Thank you
    степан wrote on Sunday, March 09, 2008 (PDT):
  • Степан тупой!
    степан wrote on Sunday, March 09, 2008 (PDT):
  • Степан тупой!
    curtis petrey wrote on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 (PDT):
    Edpap wrote on Monday, April 14, 2008 (PDT):
  • Wow I am going to fix my priter and hang this on my wall. Great stuff I can use everyday Thanks Ed
    mike oldham wrote on Friday, May 02, 2008 (PDT):
  • Great tips on safety and service on N's. here is another tip. I bought an empty metal can of the type used to hold pvc glue, about a pint with a screw on lid. I brazed a fitting in the bottom and attached it to my 9n gas line. now i can run the engine with the cowling and tank removed. I find this is great for service work. I can add just a small amount of gas to run the engine to check timing or carb adjustments. Mike
    New 2 Tractors wrote on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 (PDT):
  • Comments for 50 Tips was a GREAT read for me. I have never had a N so all the info was new and very useful. Thank you for posting it. Especially thanks for the tips about fliping over. I think, after reading articles from YT CO that I have a 1951 8N-C. Now to get it going
    David Nighteagle wrote on Saturday, May 17, 2008 (PDT):
  • Thank you so very much - just got a 9N and you answered so many questions.
    Brownie wrote on Wednesday, May 21, 2008 (PDT):
  • Thank you. I love my 9n, but its a working tractor, not a show toy, which means lots on maintanence. I am learning more every day, and your 50 tips have helped me greatly, learning new stuff and confirming some self learned 9n facts of life. Again, thank you for the info. Brownie
    BOB SICKMOND wrote on Wednesday, June 04, 2008 (PDT):
    TonyMac Crutchfield wrote on Friday, August 08, 2008 (PDT):
  • Thanks! for the tips! Item 15 is I think the best and should be moved to #1 spot as N FIRST thing to do! BUT about mounting the Fire extinguisher to the lift arm? My thought is that IF i need it i will be on the seat soaked in gas and wanting to get OFF the tractor and want the Fire extinguisher to be in my hand as i do so. So i mounted mine on the fender just next to where i put my hand as i dismount.
    Happy wrote on Saturday, September 20, 2008 (PDT):
  • Man oh man do I wish I had these 50 tips when I had my 8n. I gathered all this info to give to the guy who bought my 8N. I know he will greatly appreciate it. Thanks for your time and valuable tips.
    Joe Vandepopuliere wrote on Saturday, October 04, 2008 (PDT):
  • The turnoff valve at the settling bowl of my 54NAA has suddenly become very difficult to turn off. Can it be lubricated or do I need to install a new unit? Many thanks.
    Larry Holbrook wrote on Monday, October 27, 2008 (PDT):
  • Great article. I thought I knew everything I need to know about my 8N but you added several common sense things I didn't know. Thanks.
    Sean S. wrote on Saturday, November 01, 2008 (PDT):
  • Wish I had known about #36 earlier today. Now working with the toothpics. Awesome list if tips.
    Dale S wrote on Monday, November 10, 2008 (PST):
  • I would like to thank you Mr. Bruce Haynes for your years of knowledge and experience that you have shared in this article. I am sure it took a lot of time & energy to help all of us without the said knowledge or experience. As I read the numerous tips I understand how this could very well save some of us injury and hours of frustration. Thank you soooooo much!! PS, I don't ever want to find out what it would feel like to tip over a Ford 8N tractor.
    Excellent wrote on Wednesday, November 26, 2008 (PST):
  • I have started adding an additive coolant for hot Texas weather when I am mowing- no more steam! What we need is a trouble shooting list for common problems- such as what should I check if the engine turns over, but does not start. Can it turn over with a bad coil or bad points? Bill
    Larry Major wrote on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 (PST):
  • I was raised on Golden Jubbie, bought a 40 9N 30+ years ago. Man, your tips are better than a Sears & Roebucks catalog in the outhouse! THANKS for all your hard work.
    gary t. kish wrote on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 (PDT):
  • Very Good Tips. i read them all and learned several things i didnt know. thanx all you ford brains out there for taking the time to write all this down and sharing it with others so we dont have to screw up not knowing. Gary
    Dave wrote on Monday, April 13, 2009 (PDT):
  • I just bought an 8N & expect delivery this week. I have ordered the manuals, but am trying to learn as much as I can before I break something. I drove a 9N as a young kid, but never did anything but go up & down the field I listened to Dad tell me rows were not streight. I am printing these tips to put up in the barn. Keep them comming. Thanks Dave
    CHARLES COLLINS wrote on Saturday, May 02, 2009 (PDT):
  • i thank you very much,my 8n used to start each time i turned on the key,Now i have to remove the hose from the curberator ,and chock it to get it to start?CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME?THANK YOU.
    Pat Pickett wrote on Tuesday, May 05, 2009 (PDT):
  • I just bought my first 52 8n.I bought it because it looks sooooo cool.I know nothing about tractors and your 50 tips just shed a whole lot of light for me,and the safty tips...all i can say is thank you very much.My hydraulics are not working and i have no idea where to start...My first purchase will be the I&t manual you suggested.It is a rare thing when someone goes out of their way for no money involved...so again, thanks.Pat
    jmazzei59 wrote on Monday, May 11, 2009 (PDT):
  • I have a 1950 8n tractor. Since I changed the spark plugs, the throttle lever next to the steering wheel, won't stay all the way down, or all the up, it kind of springs to the middle. In order to keep the engine reved up, I have to manually hold the lever. Also, since I changed the plugs, I don't have very much power, it bogs down when I cut grass. Can you help this city boy ???
    snowi2 wrote on Friday, May 15, 2009 (PDT):
  • THANKS so very much for all the info. Last year the battery ran low and could not turn over fast enough to start and my neighbor said it was ok to jump start with a 12v, and so we did and the starter spun over faster than the normal sound and it did start quickly, but this year the battery has gone dead again. I guess I will be replacing the volt regulator. Also thanks for reminding me about the polarization of the generator. The last time was on a 64 Ford van I owned with a generator. Totally forgot. Thanks for reminding me.
    Dennis Mattoon wrote on Saturday, June 06, 2009 (PDT):
  • Hi Bruce, I liked your tip about an elbow to check compression w/ the cowl/tank monted on the 9N. I looked all over for a brass weatherhead elbow with threads (even close to) 14mm-1.25 that matches the plugs/cyl. head and the comp. ga. hose end. Even if I use a cheap rubber cone, push-in type comp. guage that doesn't solve the problem of the male elbow threads that need to match the cyl. head. Where did you come up w/ an 90el. w/ correct threads for this tip?
    Jeff wrote on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 (PDT):
  • Bruce - thanks for all the helpful info. These tips are great. I'm a "novice" owner of a '42 9N that I try my best to keep up myself. Your experience is invaluable to guys like me. Thanks again!
    Bob H wrote on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 (PDT):
  • Thanks from a new 8N owner without a manual.
    KC wrote on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 (PDT):
  • Great article with lots of helpful info. Mine is a 1948 8N, "born" the same year as I. The first thing I ever drove was an 8N and the six generations from my great-grandfather thru my grandson have driven it. It looks bad, but cranks better than any other vehicle I have ever owned.
    Dave wrote on Wednesday, August 05, 2009 (PDT):
  • Great tips! Now a couple from my 8N... If you ever have the oil pan off...braze/tack the oil pick-up tube on.....the first or second time you have the front wheels lift off the ground and land back down hard....will drop the pick off off into the oil pan. Convert to neg ground 12v....best thing I ever did...don't worry about the starter,it will crank the correct way....positive or neg ground.A ford escort 97 alt bolts right on and tight tight to the engine....tighter than GM alts. I used a pre electronic ignition 12v Dodge round coil with the dodge resister inline to the coil. I drilled a small hole in the disconnected but still mounted old 6v coil on my front mount dist to run in the new coil wire. This set up has run for years on a 8N that is used everyday and worked hard.......9/10 trottle open for hours most days in summer bush hogging etc and on snow duty with easy starts in winter. 1949 8N bought in 1965.I has done everthing I have asked of it. Dave in Edwards Ont Canada.
    tyrone brown wrote on Wednesday, August 05, 2009 (PDT):
  • great tips will come in handy will place them in my tractor bible,that i'm gathering from the knowledgeable people at y'days tractor. thanks for help on problem w/ lift and for the 50 tip list.
    Dave wrote on Friday, August 07, 2009 (PDT):
  • One more 8N comment from Edwards Ont.....forget the factory exhaust clamp where the pipe comes up to the exhaust manifold....get 2 reg exhaust U clamps 2" and take the U part that comes off the clamp (the part the nuts push against) and add just it to the second clamp,just slide it on reversed so your pipe come through the middle of the 2 U parts....and clamp it on...the pipe to manifold will STAY ON! FINALLY! and costs almost nothing eh! Dave from Edwards Ont Canada 49 8N
    Jim Clouse wrote on Sunday, September 13, 2009 (PDT):
  • This is a very good article easy reading, fun and informative. The author has been around the block with pratical experience. As I read the fifty tips many were refresher reminders but 50% are so were new and helpful. As I currently have 4 8N's, 1 2N, and 1 9n. I learned about Ford tractors growing up on Daddy's burley tobacco farm in the Southern Appalachian mountains of North Carolina. Jim
    Quitman Harris wrote on Saturday, January 09, 2010 (PST):
    Bruce wrote on Saturday, January 09, 2010 (PST):
  • Quitman, the comments section (this page) isn't where you ask questions & get answers! Ask the question on the board itself.
    Joe wrote on Wednesday, April 21, 2010 (PDT):
  • GREAT info on these old tractors. It addressed a lot of things I never even considered. I have a Kioti LB1914 but am looking for another tractor as mine is pretty tired. I was considering some of the older ones as they seem plentiful and parts are readily available, but For my purposes I don't believe the older ones will work for my needs. Thanks for posting. Joe (Nampa Idaho)
    Roger wrote on Friday, April 30, 2010 (PDT):
  • Well just want to say thanks for all the great tips. They are awesome as I just picked up a 8N and I don't know a single thing about tractors. Having a blast with it on my acreage.Does any body know what the bucket implement is called? And tips on how to use it.Thanks. Roger
    bill sizemore 4018 foreman lane louis. ky wrote on Friday, August 20, 2010 (PDT):
  • i cut the wires UNDER the hood that went to the point & DRITOR FROM THE COLE . I NEED A DIGRAM FOR THE WIRES AND HOW TO PUT POINTS IN AND SET THEM ? AND A FAN 6 BLADS FOR A 1940 FORD 9-N
    bill sizemore 4018 foreman lane louis. ky wrote on Friday, August 20, 2010 (PDT):
  • i cut the wires UNDER the hood that went to the point & DRITOR FROM THE COLE . I NEED A DIGRAM FOR THE WIRES AND HOW TO PUT POINTS IN AND SET THEM ? AND A FAN 6 BLADS FOR A 1940 FORD 9-N
    norman andresen wrote on Saturday, August 28, 2010 (PDT):
  • your instructionare a god send. thanks so much.
    John M. Lind wrote on Thursday, September 16, 2010 (PDT):
  • Thanks for all this!! I'm just getting used to my new 47/48 N which I use to haul firewood and plow snow on Catoctin Mt MD. Haven't yet made the mistakes you list and...if I take good advice...I won't. Doing a complete tune up just now. Former owner made some mistakes. Thanks again! PS, Do you answer questions from those who are at wits end?
    eddie wilson -texas wrote on Monday, September 20, 2010 (PDT):
  • thank you very much for all of the tips. there are several which will help me a lot!!
    Al Waselenchuk wrote on Tuesday, September 21, 2010 (PDT):
  • Excellent tips as i just purchased a 2n and am in the process of restoring it. I've tried cleaning the block where the serial number is supposed to be but cannot come up with any numbers anywhere.Im told its a later model 2N. Thanks again for all the great tips. AL
    Dan Patel wrote on Sunday, November 07, 2010 (PST):
  • Thank you for making such useful information available. I believe you have made it possible for me to fix the 9n's coolant problem.
    Fred Binggeli wrote on Wednesday, November 10, 2010 (PST):
  • Very Very helpful solved two major mysteries I had problems with
    Bob Mannion wrote on Thursday, December 02, 2010 (PST):
  • Hi, Thanks for all the most informative & comprehensive information I have ever known for the "N". I am truly amazed.WOW Bob
    temo wrote on Friday, December 03, 2010 (PST):
  • Thank You, great advice. I printed a copy and will keep it in a folder in my shop.
    Marty wrote on Wednesday, December 29, 2010 (PST):
  • What year did proofmeters appear on 8N's. Mine does not have one. Many good tips!
    Bruce(VA) wrote on Thursday, December 30, 2010 (PST):
  • Marty, this is the 'comments' section for 50 Tips (so thanks for the compliment!) It's not where you ask questions. Ask questions on the forum. The proofmeter came out in 1950, just after the side distributor did.
    stefan bobiak wrote on Sunday, January 16, 2011 (PST):
  • Steering box lubrication a god send THANKS
    steave bobiak wrote on Monday, January 17, 2011 (PST):
  • RE 8n steering box What is the proof meter and what does it look like? A dumb Canadian
    TERRY BUIE wrote on Sunday, January 23, 2011 (PST):
    Michael Avant wrote on Wednesday, February 09, 2011 (PST):
  • That is useful information. I need help with my Ford 8N. It starts fine and runs fine. But you have to keep the choke on or it will die. Even when the engine is warm. Does anyone know what is wrong with it?
    Bob In Missouri wrote on Friday, March 25, 2011 (PDT):
  • Every "new" 8N owner should have to read this. I just got my first tractor. A 49 8N front mount. I had several questions and many were answered by simply reading these tips. Many thank for your knowledge. Bob
    Wally McClure wrote on Thursday, April 28, 2011 (PDT):
  • Excellent words of wisdom. I'm acquiring a 1951 8N in a week or two. Had trouble getting the starter out when I examined it. Starter wouldn't turn the engine so that's why I wanted to see if the engine was locked up. Couldn't make a determination because I couldn't get the starter out, and couldn't get it back in. Would love to send you two photos of the tractor as it currently awaits its removal.
    Steven Wright wrote on Saturday, April 30, 2011 (PDT):
  • I live in Mechanicsville, have a couple of Fords, 3600 and 661. Still enjoyed your article and some of your points are applicable to all tractors. Good job, Steve.
    John Fulton wrote on Sunday, May 15, 2011 (PDT):
  • Love the items but which way is off on the switch? Straight up or to the left? I haven't used my 8N for years and just draned the transmission, engine, added a new battery, rebuilt the carb., added a new fan belt and sterring wheel and etc. but don't know which way to trun the key. Help!
    roger stamey wrote on Tuesday, July 26, 2011 (PDT):
  • darn if this wasn't a very useful artical.. I learned a lot of things I didn't know THANKS
    ASEguy wrote on Thursday, September 22, 2011 (PDT):
  • Great tips. Well thought out and necessary for all N owners to read. Some advice given will work on other tractors as well. Hats off to all who contributed.
    dave mcdowell wrote on Friday, September 23, 2011 (PDT):
  • I knew in the electrical of the 2n, 8n's the generator needed polarized, but didn't know where to do it. I have a 1946 2n that runs like it was built last week, and got befuttled when I did maintenance on the electrical wiring, and wouldnt ya know it,saturation, shorted across the cutoff worked ! Many thanks oh meistro of the old timers
    leej wrote on Saturday, December 10, 2011 (PST):
  • At one time I owned several fords 8&9 N's and other. I hope everyowner would read this,maybe several times over. One of the best article in YT that I have ever read. ggp.
    Ted Bachelder wrote on Tuesday, January 17, 2012 (PST):
  • 50 tips, excellent. Thank you Bruce Haynes. (tbach Wolverine MI)
    Kevin Bouche wrote on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 (PDT):
  • Thank you very much. I've been around ford N's as long as I can remember, I'm 43 yrs old. On the farm we had oliver's and farmall's. Sold farm when I was to young to do any farm tractor driving. When I was 33 my father still had big garden he loved to work and plant. I bought him a 9N and said this is yours to use, I only ask to recieve it back at your departure. He honored that to me, a yr ago I had that time to have my own 9N and I love it and need to do some of those maintenance things to it. With all old school parents and farmers gone, no one knows all the things to do to N's much anymore. Knew of some of the things to do but never as much as I see here. Old Belgian community and we valued our N's with pride. Thank You, Kevin
    randy gordon wrote on Monday, May 07, 2012 (PDT):
  • Thanks for all the info. I just got a 1951 8n and have already used a lot of the information. not running yet but almost there
    Steve Wasson wrote on Friday, May 11, 2012 (PDT):
  • I bought universal copper wire spark plug wires from TSC, they aren't very good. Where can I get custom made, copper core wires for a front-mount 8-N distributor?
    Doug (OH) wrote on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 (PDT):
  • I love this article. This is the third I've read through it--the whole thing! Thanks, Doug
    ATF-110 wrote on Monday, July 30, 2012 (PDT):
  • After installing an Over Running Coupler(ORC)ensure your PTO telescoping drivelines from each PTO implement to be connected will not be bottomed out by the extra length of the coupler.
    e.culver wrote on Friday, November 02, 2012 (PDT):
  • Great info on the ford model N, the general/practical insite on tractor operation sounds like a very experianced individual or a collaboration. Great article. Ed
    JosephD wrote on Saturday, November 03, 2012 (PDT):
  • Bruce, THANK YOU. Now I know how to fix some of my 8N problems that have plagued me for 2 yrs.
    AJ-in-BC wrote on Tuesday, December 04, 2012 (PST):
  • Re,#73, steering wheel removal. I use a standard 3-clawed gear puller, with the claws engaging with a horseshoe placed underneath the steering wheel spokes. A little bit of kerosene or penetrating oil should be applied before removal of steering wheel.
    Frank Staszak wrote on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 (PST):
  • I have a IH 350 but i have a 12 volt battery in a 6 volt system how should i connect the battery?
    Larry Steff wrote on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 (PST):
  • Thanks a million for the tips. I have used several already on my 44 2n.
    Wendell "Bud" McCurdy wrote on Monday, January 14, 2013 (PST):
  • I just have to say the "75 tips" are excellent! I bought a '49 8N from an old gentleman in 1994 when I retired to North Carolina. It reminded me of the 2N my uncle had in Georgia. I did a 12 volt conversion, paint and restore, and the old girl has just been as good as can be. Thanks, Bruce...Bud
    Lawrence Leckband wrote on Sunday, January 20, 2013 (PST):
  • Bruce Great summary of a life of learning. I run several 8 and 9 Ns as I have since the mid 50s. To Item #6 I would add one comment. Non of the new oils contain the Phosphorus and Zinc required by the Old School engines. This material is not in the new lube oils as it destroys the function of the Catalytic Converters. I use an additive from Summit Racing and it greatly improves the life of my flat tappet engines. With all the new regulations on diesels there is no reason to retire the old Fords for the lower HP requirements. In some areas above 4000 ft altitude we run a small Air Research Turbo set up to give sea level performance.
    Mike wrote on Saturday, April 13, 2013 (PDT):
  • Mr. Bruce Haynes certainly knows alot about old tractors. I couldn't help but wonder if Bruce attempted to drive a frozen down tractor foward one time. How else did he learn it may flip over? Gald he's ok and thanks for the tips! Mike
    Art Nagel wrote on Wednesday, June 05, 2013 (PDT):
  • Help--How do I remove the 3pt lift arms from my 1941 9n.It is a very tight fit. there seems to be no way to get them off because they are a little rusty. no place to really get a wack at them. Will heating them release them so a hammer will get them off the spline. neet to get at the pump for a repair.
    Sig wrote on Monday, July 01, 2013 (PDT):
  • Thanks so much for the great tips. I am in the process of getting my 8N back in service, purchased new by my dad and used all these years on our ranch. New wiring harness and a lot of other bits and pieces done. Eventually needs some hydraulic work and also eventually new pistons and rings. eBay seems to have everything needed.
    Sig wrote on Monday, July 01, 2013 (PDT):
  • Thanks so much for the great tips. I am in the process of getting my 8N back in service, purchased new by my dad and used all these years on our ranch. New wiring harness and a lot of other bits and pieces done. Eventually needs some hydraulic work and also eventually new pistons and rings. eBay seems to have everything needed.
    Sig wrote on Monday, July 01, 2013 (PDT):
  • Sorry, shouldn't have mentioned eBay in my previous comment, as now that I have discovered your site and the bonus that you take PayPal I'll be buying from here for now on.........
    Charlie wrote on Sunday, September 15, 2013 (PDT):
  • Thanks for the tips. Answered alot of questions. Just got an 9 n and want to convert to 12v
    long scott wrote on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 (PST):
    Brandon smith wrote on Thursday, March 13, 2014 (PDT):
  • I have a 1950 ford 8 nd when it gets cold in the winter I have problems starting it up how can I get it to run in the winter time
    George Newcomb wrote on Tuesday, April 08, 2014 (PDT):
  • This is some of the most helpful information I have ever seen for the 8n. Thanks a lot. Saves a lot of time searching for the answers.
    gary goodman wrote on Sunday, April 27, 2014 (PDT):
  • found tips very interesting and helpful. new owner of old 2n. what is best way to replace bushings on the front mount distributor. Also the pin on the shifter lever has been broke off. what is best way to remove old pin without complete disassembly of the steering column?
    Dennis wrote on Monday, May 05, 2014 (PDT):
  • Great article. can anyone tell me why I have black oil in my radiator? Did some farmers actually use oil instead of water based coolant ? Im hoping so, or I my have a problem
    Paul Roberts wrote on Wednesday, July 23, 2014 (PDT):
  • Good info. Thanks.
    susan elliott wrote on Sunday, August 03, 2014 (PDT):
  • Wow... good stuff! Wish you'd make some videos for the basic stuff I need to learn (I'm a total novice with this, but not afraid to try it!)
    paul wrote on Thursday, August 14, 2014 (PDT):
  • great tips for the n,s but I have question I put a new set up of electronic ignition on but don't have any spark ,I did the spark test but still no spark what do u think I have wrong thanks for any thoughts
    lionel wrote on Monday, August 18, 2014 (PDT):
  • acquired dad's 8 n ford after his passing now I have to figure out what some of the levers ect are for how the fuel tank reserve works stuff like that I know the basics BUT by no means a pro to me this article was great liked to have seen pics as well but can live with out dad's pride and joy now mine don't want to harm it due to ignorance again thanks for the valuble info
    Richard Morris wrote on Thursday, October 16, 2014 (PDT):
  • I have an 8N that starts good and run well,but after about 5 minutes, it begins to run rough and sounds like it wants to stall. At that point, I noticed air bubbles in the sediment bowl. You would see a few bubbles for a second, then it would stop bubbling for a few seconds, and so on. All screens are clean with no obstructions and the carb was just rebuilt to specs. A reply would be greatly appreciated.
    Bruce John, aka MorrisTHEMoose. wrote on Monday, November 03, 2014 (PST):
  • Lots of enlightening info on the 8 N. Stuff I have never seen before. My tractor is calling me to apply these new found ideas to it. I agree on the manuals, Ford operators manual 3729-50-M copyright 1950 and I & T Shop Services Ford shop manual FO-4. A bit pricey but indispensable when maintaining your tractor.. Mine paid for them selves the first time I used them. There is also a CD on line that has these and 10 other manuals on it for around 30.00 bucks. From one Bruce to another......KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK !!!
    kevin lantz wrote on Saturday, November 22, 2014 (PST):
  • Thank you. just got a 2n and there are a lot of great tips here.
    norm clark wrote on Thursday, May 14, 2015 (PDT):
  • Good stuff! Thanks for all your time writing the tips.
    johndmarr wrote on Saturday, May 23, 2015 (PDT):
  • my 8n tractor gets stuck in between gears. have to turn crank shaft contter clock wise to un jam and get in to natural .could any one give me a some help.
    Robert Bommarito wrote on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 (PDT):
  • There are many excellent points in the article I enjoyed the reading and it was very helpful
    Tony Pires wrote on Tuesday, September 15, 2015 (PDT):
  • Great article, Thanks
    David Mandziak wrote on Monday, October 12, 2015 (PDT):
  • Very good inffo, however I would like to know there is visible spark jumping from the plugs to the motor.
    jackcounty wrote on Monday, January 25, 2016 (PST):
  • Question, I have a early 1948 8N the amp gauge hole is 1.75 id the oil gauge hole is for a 2" gauge. The picture in the parts book shows they are different hole sizes. No one believes me but the amp gauge I took out is 1.72ish.No one has one nor knows where to find one. any suggestions Thanks
    mario ribis wrote on Saturday, February 27, 2016 (PST):
  • wow I learned a lot today thank you for taking the time to do this!!
    JayG wrote on Saturday, April 30, 2016 (PDT):
  • Hi Bruce, You sound like you know a thing or two about these, There is a hole at 9,00 and 12,00 in the back of the dist. by the rotor. The bushing doesn't have any holes in it. Are these supposed to be drilled thru? The rotor is made where it kind of kicks the oil back in as it rotates. I have a 51 Harley that has about that kind of set up.
    Peter wrote on Wednesday, May 04, 2016 (PDT):
  • My 1942 9n has a Sherman over/under auxiliary transmission.That slows down the factory transmission
    Terry Wright wrote on Wednesday, May 11, 2016 (PDT):
  • This is the best list of excellent information period. Thank You!
    Glen Welsh wrote on Saturday, May 14, 2016 (PDT):
  • I have an 8N tractor with a front end loader. After 30 years I had to replace the fan belt. The hydraulic pump runs off the end of the crankshaft. I disengaged the hydraulic pump universal but found not enough room with out taking out the bottom support bolts and tipping the hydraulic pump upward.Then the four studs that are in the crankshaft fan pulley would back out with about 1/8 inch clearance. I cut one of the notches off the inside of the fan belt to give me more room and was able to force the fan belt pass the studs and on the pulley. This was a major job and I think maybe the drive for Hydraulic pump could be unscrewed from the drive plate. It probably would have a left hand thread though.
    Jono Stack wrote on Friday, June 03, 2016 (PDT):
  • I just wanted to thank you for putting this together! I recently inherited a 1946 2N that was on the property of a house we bought. She wasn't running and left to rust. Using your forum and these articles, I've been able to put her back to work. This is the first tractor I've ever owned and I'm really enjoying her.
    Leon A Walters wrote on Friday, October 14, 2016 (PDT):
  • I bought a new distributor cap and the gasket kit for my 9N. It seemed like it was the wrong size, but after calling the sales dept. I found that you have to turn it edgewise ie place the outside edge of the gasket into the groove and then press the gasket into the groove. Worked fine. Also many diagrams of the generator don't show that the adjusting arm (on my tractor) is located between the generator and the mounting arms - need to loosen that to replace the belt (a little tight getting it past the radiator blades - just take your time).
    Leon A Walters wrote on Friday, October 14, 2016 (PDT):
  • I bought a new distributor cap and the gasket kit for my 9N. It seemed like it was the wrong size, but after calling the sales dept. I found that you have to turn it edgewise ie place the outside edge of the gasket into the groove and then press the gasket into the groove. Worked fine. Also many diagrams of the generator don't show that the adjusting arm (on my tractor) is located between the generator and the mounting arms - need to loosen that to replace the belt (a little tight getting it past the radiator blades - just take your time).
    Kerry Coffey wrote on Saturday, October 15, 2016 (PDT):
  • Thanks very much Bruce for your helpful hints. I have a 1952 8N which is very special to me. She has an exhaust leak around number 4 cylinder. Your note helped me be better prepared for when I pull of her manifold. I had planned on replacing the studs anyway. Thanks again.
    Buckeyemac wrote on Thursday, November 03, 2016 (PDT):
  • Great info for this newbie. You might have saved my life. I think most of this applies to my Jubilee, but want to know if there is an addendum anywhere for Jubilee owners.
    qcmanjwp wrote on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 (PST):
  • # 13 is wrong I believe. Spark plug gap should be around .015" and not 1/4".
    qcmanjwp wrote on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 (PST):
  • Opps I meant .035" gap on that spark plug gap. Sorry.
    David F Kalena wrote on Tuesday, March 21, 2017 (PDT):
  • Fabulous article a MUST READ if you own/work on these tractors. Only wish my printer worked better, Had to take notes with pen/pencil.
    doug wrote on Tuesday, March 21, 2017 (PDT):
  • good article don't agree with all 100% but very good hope it helps some thanks
    johnny large wrote on Friday, March 31, 2017 (PDT):
  • these are great tips on the ford tractors glad some one knows a lot on these tractors helps a lot thanks.
    Jim wrote on Wednesday, May 03, 2017 (PDT):
  • This is great stuff. Still trouble-shooting my 8N, so now I've got some new tests to make!
    don hewitt wrote on Thursday, May 04, 2017 (PDT):
  • hello great web site, my 8 n's clutch stopped working as it should, i bought a remanufactured clutch from local ford dealer..... i am fairly advanced as a mechanic.... split tractor r & r clutch.back together (seem to be fairly basic) could not get adjustment right split tractor again??? back together still NG following the book it says 3/4 " free play..... any help tks d h
    New to "N" wrote on Sunday, May 21, 2017 (PDT):
  • Tip #17 Should the Adjusters "Short" side go Down on the Right Side? Mistakenly listed as long and long.
    Elaine Wirth wrote on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 (PDT):
  • Thanks for the informative tips. I know zip about my Ford 9n. I will have to check your notes to prove it isn't an 8n. My husband died and I will print your tips for the next owner.
    Jim wrote on Thursday, July 20, 2017 (PDT):
  • What a wealth of knowledge. Just purchased an 8n and am looking for all the information I can get. Great ideas coupled with the knowledge and experience. Thanks apain.
    Larry wrote on Saturday, October 14, 2017 (PDT):
  • In regards to Tip #38... If this happens Points & Coil, am I looking are replacing both or can they be cleaned and used?
    Spencer Cullen wrote on Wednesday, October 18, 2017 (PDT):
  • When removing the top lift cover to do cylinder repair/replace, I suggest loosen the four nuts that hold the cylinder to the cover just a turn or two before removing the 14 bolts that hold it to the tractor. I didn't and they were a bear to get off. I doubt they'd ever been off, and in addition they have peen painted over. Once you get them loosened, a ratchet and socket will easily remove them when the cover is off the tractor. And a car engine type hoist makes for a much easier removal and reinstall.
    Don Philen wrote on Sunday, December 17, 2017 (PST):
  • Article really helpful
    Farmer Grandaddy Bill wrote on Saturday, February 10, 2018 (PST):
  • Wow a lot of information to check in here thanks for your sharing of knowledge.
    Gary Clark wrote on Sunday, April 08, 2018 (PDT):
  • Hi Bruce, my questions is, what kind of problem would indicate needing to replace the hydraulic oil on an 8N? My lifter arms work beautifully when I start the tractor, but the longer I run it, the longer it takes the arms to respond to my lifting the lever up. Any thoughts?
    John wrote on Wednesday, April 18, 2018 (PDT):
  • Too bad I didn't have this info when my Dad would bring home a well used 8 or 9N typically with shall we say less-than- endearing issue and challenge me saying that he bet I couldn't fix something- If the hood came off, I always painted everything prior to reassembly- Man I loved those tractors
    david denman wrote on Tuesday, June 19, 2018 (PDT):
  • these 75 tips are the most helpful and informative i have come across and i sure wish i had a long time ago. i am visiting a friend in GA and he has a Ford NAA which runs and then stalls - we have several things to check and much thanks for your excellent tips.
    Larry Chernik wrote on Friday, June 22, 2018 (PDT):
  • I have had my 8N for over 30 years. 18 years ago I rebuilt it ring, sleeves,bearings etc.. Also sandblasted & painted everything down to the nuts & bolts, it turned out very nice.About 3 years ago I began quitting after 20 minutes of working it pretty hard, no spark, sometimes it would fire back up in a few minutes, sometimes over an hour?? If I were to drive down the road it would never quit. I have changed points, plugs condenser, coils. Sometimes it will run 2 or 3 hours working it without quitting, then other time it only goes 20 minutes. (I have been researching on the internet, seems like quite a few people experience the 20 minute quitting! On one of the times I had a mechanic replace the voltage regulator, he had left out ballast resistor saying that my system still being the original 6 volt system didn't require it? I am just wondering if anyone knows, could I be over heating my coil since I do not have the ballast???? I have always had the original Ford manual. I found a few things in this article that I had been wondering about, such as the little draft lever, & confirmation that I had been charging my battery correctly. Also what the cotter key was for LOL! I found it very informative & is now stored in my favorites! THANKS
    Art lokos wrote on Thursday, August 02, 2018 (PDT):
  • Excellent information. Time - saving stuff👍
    Ken Olson wrote on Monday, August 27, 2018 (PDT):
  • Wouldn't #65 be use an 8 point socket on the oil plug rather than a 6 point? points are for square sizes.
    Jim Knecht wrote on Thursday, October 18, 2018 (PDT):
  • I now own a 1948 8n with the loader. All of your tips are a great resource. I do have one question. What type, brand of oil should I use in the frame of the loader? Thanks again for the great info.
    d. oberdick wrote on Saturday, December 01, 2018 (PST):
  • excellent information! Thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge on the n-series tractors.
    Bill Cummings wrote on Monday, March 18, 2019 (PDT):
  • billcummings1944@yahoo.com
    Bill Cummings wrote on Monday, March 18, 2019 (PDT):
  • I cannot get my 3 point to lower even with blade on
    Chris Koesterer wrote on Thursday, March 28, 2019 (PDT):
  • Excellant article! I e owned 8n's for over 20 years. Love em! Currently have an issue with starter bendix, just like the article talked about. I'll keep trying the wire wheel theory.
    Dick Hotchkiss wrote on Thursday, May 02, 2019 (PDT):
  • Do you answer questions
    dougwinkler wrote on Wednesday, July 17, 2019 (PDT):
  • will my 8 n run a 5foot single stage snow blower
    Ed wrote on Sunday, September 01, 2019 (PDT):
  • Having just have purchased a 2 n and a 9 n parts tractor I appreciate the work put into the list of 75 tips. Thanks much!
    Michael Huff wrote on Thursday, September 19, 2019 (PDT):
  • Nice to have all these tip together in one spot. I know most of these tip but but easy to forget if not used recently
    jay mcmunn wrote on Sunday, November 03, 2019 (PST):
  • cannot get the fan belt on a 9n. is it possible to cut the tangs off of the ratchet bolt on the crank shaft.? don't know if this would cause a vibration???
    gary cheadle wrote on Monday, January 27, 2020 (PST):
  • Thanks for the suggestions. I just bought a hybrid 9/2/8n tractor with an 8n motor and 8n rear trumpets.

    Fast Shipping!  Most of our stocked parts ship within 24 hours (M-Th). We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our fast shipping, low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

    Home  |  Forums

    Copyright © 1997-2019 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

    All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

    TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

    Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

    Website Accessibility Policy