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Article Comments
Comments for MF35 Assembly Notes
Add to these Comments

Chip wrote on Wednesday, November 01, 2000 (PST):
  • Thanks for this helpful entry, I'm going to put this in my file for the future.
    kris eckhoff wrote on Saturday, November 04, 2000 (PST):
  • I found it was much easier to line the splines on the input shafts up with each other and the splines on the clutch together. My TO35 slid right together
    Bob Jacobs, Instructor, University of Northwestern Ohio, Tech Division wrote on Thursday, November 09, 2000 (PST):
  • Sounds like good advice and instructions. I am getting ready to replace the rear main and transmission seals on a MF65 diesel special that I recently purchased. When I was at the local Massey dealer buying some other parts that I needed I asked what they would charge to do this and I was told $1000.00. I almost laughed at them. With this article and both the Massey and IT manuals I don't think that I will have any problems. Thanks, Bob Jacobs
    mark wrote on Sunday, September 01, 2002 (PDT):
  • to anyone who can help; I have a MF 35 that has a dead pto. the symptoms include no hydraulics and no engine pto. The ground pto however does work. any helpful feedback would be apreciated....thanks
    Gary Pearce wrote on Monday, December 16, 2002 (PST):
  • What a great article.pity i did not find this 6 months ago when during re-assembly I managed to pop out the centre of a new clutch I had fitted. Rgs Gary (Bath UK)
    mike wrote on Sunday, January 12, 2003 (PST):
  • Can anybody offer some instruction on checking and adjusting the clearance for the PTO on a MF 35. When the engine warms up, the PTO loses drive. Probably needs a new clutch plate but want to check adjustments first. Any help appreciated
    David P from South Wales UK. wrote on Monday, January 20, 2003 (PST):
  • Great article, been through every step in 30 years of repairing MF's. Can I add two further suggestions? 1/ When wheeling the front end forward with axle intact, cut and insert a wooden wedge on each side between the axle and axle casting 2 and 4 WD. This helps maintain the alignment on refitting. We use a set of splitting rails made some 30 years ago and can be used on most makes. 2/ When you have rejoined the two halves, only fit one bolt about halfway up the casing each side. Adjust the pedal clearance and have an assistant operate the pedal in the second stage to ensure efficient release with travel to spare. If you have a problem, it's far easier to take out two easy bolts rather than struggle with the lot including the 12 o'clock bolt and if it's a 135 with power steering, the pain in the **** pipes.
    Paul Fry wrote on Tuesday, February 11, 2003 (PST):
  • My fergy 35 petrol is a near faultless machine with many hours of work around the farm. However it has one problem and that is the seal of the pto takeoff shalft allows oil to leak out. Can this be replaced from the rear or is it a major job. Any advice would be appreciated.
    Jerry Loeffelbein wrote on Wednesday, October 15, 2003 (PDT):
  • Excellent article. Well written, understandable. And, from my experience, right on. Thank you.
    Bruce Millar wrote on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 (PST):
  • I am looking for the clutch finger spacing information for a spicer laycock clutch on my massye 35 gas utility from 1963. My manual says use the stock guage but does not mention how deep the notch in the guage is. Do you have any information on that measurement from any of your manuals? Thanks
    Ian Moignard wrote on Monday, December 18, 2006 (PST):
  • I found these notes helpful, but they are incorrect in stating that the traction clutch disc splines engage before the PTO clutch splines. Jack is not alone; my MF 35 workshop manual and my MF 135/148 manual also suffer from this misconception. Regards Ian
    john wrote on Tuesday, October 02, 2007 (PDT):
  • Very detailed. I hpoe you write more articles.
    Carl wrote on Tuesday, October 16, 2007 (PDT):
  • Good Article, but do I have to take the tractor apart to unlock the gears. They seem to be locked in 2nd Gear. I unscrewed the cap next to the gears where you add gear oil, but have not been able to disengage the gears
    Aaron Ford wrote on Saturday, July 12, 2008 (PDT):
  • Be sure to have the throwout bearing installed before joining the halves....
    mike wrote on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 (PDT):
  • I am working on m-f 35 23c have put new pistons rings liners head was redone new valves springs a complet redo but not the injection pump it still smokes has no power i have looked at the video lost count i am a diesel mechanic so it is not new to me just frustraded that it is not running good when i set the timing and turn the engine to the right number one piston and number one valve open at the same time thats looking from the front but when i turn it over to left number one piston moves 3/4 ways down then the valve starts to open and still stays open half way up on exhaust so it leaves un burned fuel and smokes i would like if someone can tell me when you are at the front of the tractor if rotation of engine is to the right or left thank you
    Vic wrote on Sunday, January 16, 2011 (PST):
  • I have the dimisions for the guage to set the clutch fingers if any body wants them 740 982 7446 Thanks Vic
    Rusty Jones wrote on Monday, January 16, 2012 (PST):
  • WHEW!! I worked on the older Ford Cars and tractors, many years ago, at a dealership. I can appreciate the work involved in splitting those models. And, after reading of the work involved with the MF tractor, I'm going to tell my son not to attempt it in his old garage! He has an MF farm tractor. It runs ok now, but who knows what the future will bring?! RJ
    Aaron Ford wrote on Thursday, August 13, 2015 (PDT):
  • If after themselves are joined the clutch still lays on the foot rest, you have likely forgotten the throw out bearing. It takes about 2 hours to rectify this problem...
    Michael Halsall wrote on Friday, August 12, 2016 (PDT):
  • I assume this article covers both British (MF-35 & MF-35X) as well US built 35 tractors. I am beginning to look at buying a British built MF-35 ("Standard" 4 cylinder diesel engine) for restoration. Here in Australia we only had the British built 35 & 135 tractors.

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