E. Allison wrote on Monday, October 02, 2000 (PDT): A very well written article. I enjoy your humor and appreciate your honesty in regard to the expense involved. kegger wrote on Monday, October 02, 2000 (PDT): i think what you are attempting is admirable my advice toyou is make sure your injection pump is also gone through so your engine will last after all there was a reason it sat so long any way please buy an oliver tractor next time if any are available Brian wrote on Monday, October 02, 2000 (PDT): It's to your advantage (though it may not seem so) to have taken the full plunge into this rebuild. At least when you're done you'll know what you have. As to the cost, I'm glad to hear someone else flipping out about the price of dealer parts. Years ago I had a 420 dozer, and needed a needle and seat for the carb. $30 at the dealer. Clutches for the final drives were $27 a disk ($900 to do one side). Last week I went to the International dealer to get the rubber boot for the starter (where the rod connects to the solenoid on top) on my 414. When told it's $30 I decided I can do without or figure something else out. I work on cars a bit, and find there's a lot of competition in the parts business. I guess that's not so for tractors? I'd like to find a source for parts besides the dealer. Especially for 'non-critical' parts like seats, etc. Anyway, good luck and thanks for sharing the story and pics. Bob Dunstan wrote on Tuesday, October 03, 2000 (PDT): This is a very well written and documented article. It sets a new standard for other authors to meet. I particularly like the pictures as they really are worth a thousand words! -rad Westy wrote on Wednesday, October 04, 2000 (PDT): Great article, Can't wait for volume III to come out. I too am a novice and am greatly helped by the thorough explanation, pics and humor. I am a new tractor owner and although I do not wish to go through such an experience it helps me respect all the more those who do. Thanks The Red wrote on Thursday, October 05, 2000 (PDT): Simply an outstanding article and very well documented. I love the detailed pictures also. Steering wheel wise I had the same problem on my 1951 Farmall H last year. I used a reciprocating saw with a metal blade and cut the hub into the keyway. I then used a chisel to spread the hub. I then used a 3 jaw puller to remove it. Dollar wise, I basically gave up counting after I passed $3,000. At that point I just wanted to complete the project. I am looking forward to the next article! Mike Weir wrote on Thursday, October 05, 2000 (PDT): Great fun, and interesting, to read your article. Thanks taking the time to put this all down. James Aday wrote on Friday, October 06, 2000 (PDT): This is a very timely article as well as a good testimonial of what happens with one of these rebuilds. I have a 2010 RC S/N 16938 which I am currently about to put the two halves back together. I split it at the transmission/clutch housing joint. It was impossible to engage reverse gear so I took a look to see why. I hope you don't need to go inside there. I found all of the gears, synchronizers, drums, blockers and the main input shaft to be totally unusable. Fortunately, I was able to find used parts as the local JD dealer wanted $1,029.00 for the shaft alone. The double gears were priced at $325 per set and there are two sets. I expect the complete shaft assembly would have run close to $3,000.00 or more. I consider myself lucky to have been able to find useable replacement parts. I'm expecting to have to rebuild the engine also, so your story is very interesting. If you need a source for transmission parts let me know and I'll pass it along. Mark North wrote on Wednesday, October 11, 2000 (PDT): Fantastic journal! Well written. Inspires one to do such a daunting project. Thanks for sharing. Greg wrote on Wednesday, October 11, 2000 (PDT): The first two installments are excellent. I look forward to the future parts. When you are done you should bind the articles together along with your VERY valuable pics and offer it up for sale! I for one (being an owner of a 2010 which works well despite what others say about this model) would be happy to purchase a copy. Let us (me) know if you would entertain that idea, it might even defray some of the cost of the rebuild. Greg m fosko wrote on Monday, October 16, 2000 (PDT): great article and pics!!! i,too, own a 2010 (1962). one tip that has had me down for about two months. thought my head was cracked and started tearing it down. after having head checked (which has two hairline fractures) we decided that it was ok. problem after all was the copper seals at the turbulence chambers. i had to lap-flat the surface that meets the top copper washer. after years since the factory machining was done the surfaces were not flat thus creating leakage (blow-by) into the water jacket. another valuable lesson learned, don't get upset and TAKE YOUR TIME! good luck, can't wait to see the finished product. JAY wrote on Thursday, October 19, 2000 (PDT): Here in North Carolina,USA.We use a 1/2 inch air wrench to remove any flywheel bolts.Just thought u should know this being it is very simple.Later Dave wrote on Monday, October 30, 2000 (PST): I admire your guts in tackling this challenge. Your narrative reads a little like "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance", a minor classis in the US in the 1970's. Keep it up. casey wrote on Sunday, November 05, 2000 (PST): I have a 2010 diesel. Any cracks in the block? Know anything about getting a block welded? Where can you buy an unwelded, uncracked block? M. L. Anderson wrote on Sunday, January 07, 2001 (PST): Your adventure is very admirable. I'm readig it now for the third time. Your comment about the bent pushrod being the cause of all the trouble may be wrong, if I were to bet on it I'd bet on the lack of proper oil and a changing of the oil and the filter is the original problem. The bent push rod sounds like somthing stuck and then the push rod bent as a result. I'll bet also that the men at Repco know.They have very likely seen everything that can happen to an engine! If you have time it would be interesting to know what they say. Yours M. L. Anderson Ken Morford wrote on Tuesday, January 09, 2001 (PST): I know exactly what he is going though, I bought a very use, mistreated 2010RU diesel four years ago, it always ran somewhat rough a times finally during haying season it quit firing on the number one cylinder , so I had the fuel injection completely rebuilt at the cost of $850.00, after reassembling it and bleeding it out, I was raking the field and had gotten off the tractor to open the gate for my partner leaving the tractor idling , when the #1 connecting rod give and went through the block. After taking the engine completely apart I discovered someone had done some work on the #1 piston and valves , when they put the wrist pin snap rings in the piston they did not get them seated which of course they moved out and destroyed the cylinder wall causing a loss of compression and thats why it had quit firing the first time. But I happy to say in a short time from now I'll have it back together , in the mean time it has given my the time to completely go through they tractor and find the other thing that are not right!! Smith wrote on Monday, January 29, 2001 (PST): You certainly have had problems with your JD2010. I have repaired many of these over the last 30 years and usually have wrecks in stock. I normally keep most used/new parts in stock as I service about 50 of this model in our area. I come from Myrtleford in Victoria. Call if you need help. 03 57 522278. frank farla wrote on Saturday, March 24, 2001 (PST): Mr Nielsen,you did pretty good sofar and i am sure you"ll do the rest just as fine. Coming back to that airfilter,did you try to heat it ,where the parts join together? It will expand the outside first,be carefull not to overheat,but heat it up quickly as possible,so the inside part doesn't heat up yet.Hopefully it will work for you.Good luck with your project. Frank from Canada Terry wrote on Tuesday, April 24, 2001 (PDT): Thank you for sharing your intrepid adventure! I look forward to further installments. I can hardly wait. Terry Steve wrote on Saturday, February 16, 2002 (PST): I have a JD 2010 gas-burner that is only slightly older than this one. Thank goodness the engine is fine. There are other problems in the hydraulics and power steering that are beginning to need attention. After hearing of your predicament, I don't think I'll delve too deeply into this one. RICK ECKERT wrote on Tuesday, February 19, 2002 (PST): I LIVE IN CENTRIAL KANSAS ON A SMALL FARM.I OWN A JOHN DEERE 4010,A FARMALL M,AND ALLIS WC.I HAVE REDONE THE 4010 BUT NOT ENGINE IT WAS FINE.I LOVE YOUR STORY AND PICTURES CANT WAIT TO READ MORE.IF THERE IS SOMETHING I CAN FIND FOR YOU IN THE STATES LET ME KNOW THANKS,RICK ECKERT Vetter Farms wrote on Thursday, July 25, 2002 (PDT): I alsohave a 1964 2010 diesel although mine is an industriel crawler. I need to find a good Engine block, the casting # is T17513. I would also consider a complete running engine or tractor for parts. Any help on fiding these parts would be helpful. Thanks Brian wrote on Wednesday, November 13, 2002 (PST): If you are spending the time and money to fix the tractor fix it right the crankshaft jounarls could be welded up and than machined to size that would get rid of all the marks no way would i put it together that way. Brian Steven W wrote on Wednesday, November 13, 2002 (PST): Great story. Really liked the pictures as you went along. Good luck on the remainder of the project. Russ wrote on Friday, February 28, 2003 (PST): 2010 Project Leader; I agree with most of the folks who have written you. You are a gifted writer and all your photo insets really get the point across. I am amazed that the folks down under can get almost any JD part new or used or rebuilt. Someone has to keep those JD Dealers and all their families from going without. I know when I worked on my 1948 John Deere B each JD part was sticker shock. It sure sounds like your JD 2010 went from good to bad shape on mostly the original volume of oil with a few rare additions of new oil (perhaps never, I repeat never drained). If you ever need to clear out old hardened scum oil from the oilpan again try a large metal tub with water boiling over an open fire pit for several hours. Then fish out the scalding oil pan and gouge/scrape out the petro scum/tacky mess. The only other area I can offer a solution was on the old intact steering wheel hub removal process. Heat the hub several cycles and as it is cooling down wrap in a rag and soak with PB Rust or other penetrating oils. Then create a jig which uses a Port-a-Power stubby cylinder to apply tension. Then beat with a 2 lb hammer and repump the Porta pressure for several cyles. This method took off my JD B right hub with many cycles including an 8 lb sledge. Like the rest of the worlds tractor fans I am awaiting your third installment. Good luck and keep feeding those JD Dealer families. Karl Sampson wrote on Tuesday, March 18, 2003 (PST): I was wondering how project 2010 is coming along.It sounds like a big project.Let me know how it turned out.Thanks. Florian Eble wrote on Monday, May 19, 2003 (PDT): Hallo I have a John Deere Dozer 2010 it has the same enine, but I have no data about the motor please can you give some infomations about that Typ. adress; name; Florian Eble town; 88487 Baltringen street; Talsraße 27 E-mail; Florian-Eble@gmx.de Im from Germany Thanks. Jim wrote on Sunday, June 01, 2003 (PDT): It would appear that #2 cylinder either had a water leak or the previous owner left it out in the rain without covering the muffer. The 1010 and 2010 were a bit of a learning expierence for JD as all their engines prior to that had been 2 cylinder only. buickanddeere wrote on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 (PST): With all the wear found elsewhere and the description of what was in the oil pan. It's safe to assume the cam lobes and the lifters/followers are worn.If worn the timing and lift is off, the engine can not ever run as it should. This would be the time to freshen the the valve train up. Suprising cheap task to do too. Checking the valve spring tension can't hurt either. Who knows what happened to bend that pushrod etc. Peter Houle wrote on Thursday, March 24, 2005 (PST): You should take a lot of pictures. I photo every part before dis-assembly. This helps when you go to reassemble. My wife also states that it will be helpful in divorse court as evidence to my addiction. Brian Lindner wrote on Saturday, June 11, 2005 (PDT): From experience, I can tell you that pounding on the steering shaft of a 2010 is a mistake. In a failed attempt to remove our wheel many years ago, I apparently damaged the seals on the shaft, as ever since it has pumped oil up the mast, which then drips off the throttle lever. Constant mess. jcee wrote on Saturday, September 09, 2006 (PDT): thx for the chuckles. through the dark a light glimmers even. The end product should be worth the effort. Been there and done that, and I will do it again, if I can afford it. lol gahorN wrote on Sunday, March 18, 2007 (PDT): Brian offered his opinion you should weld the journals of the crank in order to build them up for re-machining. I disagree. Welding it will create other embrittlement and tempering issues, not to mention porosity problem. A better solution is to have the crank machined to .0035 or .0040 the minimum necessary to achieve the desired result and have new bearings custom fabricated to fit. Not only is this a better engineering solution, it is less expensive as well. IMHO ed logsdon wrote on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 (PDT): I have a 2010 wheel with 700 loader 93 backhoe I think it is the best I have ever owned Dawes Ramos A. wrote on Wednesday, September 12, 2007 (PDT): Tengo un JD 2010 diesel igual lo reconstrui consegui una bomba inyeccion usada y recalibrada pero aun humea bastante y pierde fuerza y como puedo regular el sistema hidraulico no funciona muy bien. Larry59 wrote on Monday, March 17, 2008 (PDT): lol I am sorry you had so much trouble. But reading your article was good. So good it made me laugh time. For I to am working on my tractor. Could not pull that steering wheel off for nothing. Beat and beat and pulled with no luck. Then had to take that grinder wheel and cut it into as you did. lol What a job for the dash is close to wheel and really had to work at it myself. lol Right now I have most the sheet metal off and sanding it. But the front grill with some hood. Had grease all around in it. So had to take it today with it raining to car wash and try to get it off metal. So on went pressure hose and I hit it good. But it circled around that head lights and totaly wet me down to a soaking. My glasses I could not see cause of soap all over. Was just glad my wife was not there cause she would still be laughting. So who knows what is next to happen. Done rewired tractor and put in new switches. shessss cost cost cost.

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