missori mark wrote on Friday, March 31, 2000 (PST): Good job,and very well done. Joe Buskirk wrote on Saturday, April 01, 2000 (PST): Great article but I have a +ground 6V system. How do you update this system? Jim Moberly wrote on Saturday, April 01, 2000 (PST): Very good comprehensive article. Tyler(WA) Author's NOTE wrote on Saturday, April 01, 2000 (PST): Sorry for the typo on the title of the second picture. That's obviously a "Regulator" and not an "Alternator." Kim wrote on Sunday, April 02, 2000 (PDT): Tyler, I fixed the typo. My fault, sorry about that! John Lambert wrote on Monday, April 03, 2000 (PDT): Good article and good help. Keep up the good work... Rick Cook wrote on Monday, April 03, 2000 (PDT): Great article! I have a '48 Cub that has 6V + ground. Any info on how to get to 12V neg ground? Brian wrote on Monday, April 03, 2000 (PDT): Great info , any ideas on the mechanical tach hook up? John Church wrote on Tuesday, April 04, 2000 (PDT): thanks for taking the time to do this article. I am just getting ready to change to an alternator on a Farmall H, and you comments are helpful. B McKinley wrote on Wednesday, April 05, 2000 (PDT): Great work... Just on comment. I have converted my Farmall H and a friends Fergy TO-20... The installations I did had to have a light (or resistor) in either the #1 or #2 line. Otherwise, a dead short exists... I'm not sure which line but I would suggest checking this out if your new installations starts eating alternators... Go Farmalls!!! Mark wrote on Thursday, April 06, 2000 (PDT): Great article,I just finished converting myWD45. Ineed to get a diode,the tractor keeps running after it is shut off.even after the positive battery cable is disconected. What do i ask for at the auto parts store? just a diode? CHRIS wrote on Thursday, April 13, 2000 (PDT): WHAT ABOUT THE TACH.? DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A DRIVE UNIT TO MAKE IT WORK? I HAVE A MF35 GAS. Terry wrote on Saturday, April 15, 2000 (PDT): I just updated my Super A from 6v positive ground to 12v negative ground. I used a coil with internal resistor and a delco alternator with internal regulator. I also had the starter reworked so I could use a firewall mount solenoid similar to that found on early fords and convert to a key start system. With these modifications I had no problems converting to 12v and a negative grounded system. Jonathan Smith wrote on Sunday, April 16, 2000 (PDT): Hi! I've restored a 1941 Massey Harris 81. It was updated from a +ground 6v system to a newer -ground 12v system. Everything works fine...but, the field generator (2 brush, externally regulated) will only work if it is flashed every time. ("F" Field terminal to ground, "A" +12v terminal to 12v, for an instant) My question; Is there supposed to be a flashing function built into the regulator? Or is the field generator supposed to retain enough magnetism to work from day to day? Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks, -Jonathan jon@gralen.com www.sheridanc.on.ca/~smithjon/tractor.html Alan Miller wrote on Monday, April 17, 2000 (PDT): Thanks,I never thought I would find the help I needed. I need to convert to an altanator on my old 63 Farmall 560 diesel. If you have any info. on this tractor please send. The old generator will no longer keep the battery charged Jonathan Thomas wrote on Friday, April 21, 2000 (PDT): I enjoyed your articule. Just a couple of comments to add. On older tractors with wide fan belts, one can use the split pulleys from some overseas units and just add washers between the halfs. The pulleys have the same shaft diameter and fit the Delco units just fine. On the senseing circuit that you refer, you can use a dash bulb placed in series in this circuit. It can be placed on the dash or at the alt. itself. This is the same circuit that the indicator light is placed. Just remember that it is in series, Pos. to Pos. It works by current flow in either direction. When the engine is running everything is in balance and the light goes out. This is the only circuit like this on the car. Quite unique! It has to be a dash sized bulb as you need the resistance to make it work. A larger tail light bulb would not work. Keep up the good work. Jonathan Thomas MIKE bUCA wrote on Friday, April 21, 2000 (PDT): iT WOULD BE HELPFUL iF YOU HAD A ARTICAL ON HOW TO CONVERT A POS. GROUND TO A NEG. GROUND Paul Kaprelian wrote on Tuesday, April 25, 2000 (PDT): I have a ford 671 with the select-o-matic trans that I plan on converting but am not sure about a few things. Do I need to change the coil and the starter. Also there is a wire that goes into the trans. What might that be? Will the gas gage need replacing? George P Bush Jr wrote on Sunday, April 30, 2000 (PDT): Have 64 cub-cadet with starter-gen. want to upgrgrade- CAN I DO IT?? Tom Danek wrote on Saturday, September 02, 2000 (PDT): Excellent article -- easily understood, with helpful illustrations. bruce ewen wrote on Saturday, September 01, 2001 (PDT): Ya know, there are a lot or us wanna be tractor lovers who want to know this kind of stuff. (beginners if you will). keep these 'simple' articles coming! Great stuff!! Jon Grizzle wrote on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 (PST): I have a 4010 John Deer 24 VDC tractor I would like to replace the 24 VDC generator with a 24 VDC alternator. Do you have any recommendation? Can a Delco 10SI 12 VDC alternator be converted to output 24 VDC by replacing the internal regulator with an internal or external 24 VDC regulator? Jgrizzle@gte.net PH; 972-881-1158 david salamone wrote on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 (PDT): Is there any way to get step by step instructions on this charging system? VermontBob wrote on Monday, September 02, 2002 (PDT): Great article. It helped me with an old bulldozer that had been wired wrong.Saves me time not having to charge the battery.Thanks for sharing the tricks. tom stuckey wrote on Wednesday, March 12, 2003 (PST): i knew how to wire one up .... but i had no idea what the sensor lead had any thing to do with anything.. don't have the foggiest idea how to thank you enough for explaining it that way ! ! ! tom stuckey shreveport , LA thanks again R.A. Amans wrote on Monday, October 13, 2003 (PDT): This is just what I was looking for. Very, Very helpful Thank you very much. Richard Bruce Young wrote on Tuesday, November 18, 2003 (PST): I need to know how a pos. ground system works & how to wire it. william leif wrote on Saturday, February 14, 2004 (PST): i am trying to put a alternator on my massey furguson mf 65 and was needing to know what datsun alternater you used Dan wrote on Saturday, May 20, 2006 (PDT): Very informative for a week-end mechanic like me. Very few times have I been able to recieve info. like this when I need it. Thanks, Dan bill wrote on Thursday, September 27, 2007 (PDT): Great article. I am in the middle of replacing an ignition switch on a converted Ford 801 lost keys , and could not figure how/why the 3rd post on the switch went straight to the alt. Push button start on tranny Now I think it is an isolation type switch that separates the alt from battery at moment of disconnect to prevent back flow or spark. Hard finding this 3 post switch in general auto catalogs. Most 3 post are off/on/start. Anyone had any experience with an on/off switch with 3rd post to alt Dan Ely wrote on Wednesday, November 28, 2007 (PST): “HARD STARTING” By Dan Ely Does your tractor use a 6-volt electrical system? They are very widespread on tractors built before 1960. It is a common practice to convert these systems to 12 volts usually via a 12-volt alternator. This conversion completely ruins a tractors' originality and causes a purist like myself to cringe whenever I see one of these old workhorses at our show with an alternator hanging on the engine. The 12-volt system just makes the tractor easier to start. The predominant reason for the 6-volt system being hard to start is the engine just cranks to slow. Now I’m going to teach you how to make the 6-volt system work. Many moons ago most starters were 6 volts. The 12-volt system became commonplace in the automotive industry around 1955 and then it became the standard. It offered the same starting torque as the 6-volt while only drawing half the electrical current. Since the 12-volt starter only needed half the current as a 6-volt starter, manufacturers used smaller battery cables. This is because of the power formula (voltage x current power). So 6 volts times 600 amps 3600 watts or 12 volts times 300 amps 3600 watts. See how the current dropped to half for the 12- volt starter. The size of a conductor (battery cable) is determined by the amount of current it has to carry and has nothing to do with the voltage. That is why the 12-volt starters have smaller cables. These are realistic amperage ratings for automotive starters. Now, when Joe Farmer needs a battery cable for his 8N, he goes to a parts store and buys one off the shelf made for a 12-volt starter. The starter works but it's not up to its former ability. The reason for this is the heat loss in the too-small battery cable. The heat will also cause the swaged connections at each end of the battery cable to deteriorate. Now Mr. Farmer’s 8N is hard to start. He theorizes that a 12-volt conversion would remedy the situation. If your battery cable gets warm when cranking the engine, then something is wrong! The energy is supposed to go into the starter, not the cable. A 6-volt battery cable of less than two feet in length should never be any smaller than 1 gauge. The smaller a cable’s gauge number, the larger the cable. Of course a longer cable will have more losses and should be larger still. To get a larger cable, ask the parts salesclerk for a battery cable for a diesel truck. Feel the battery cable while the engine is cranking. The cable getting warm at the end indicates a bad swaged connection. If the cable gets warm anyplace along its length, then it probably needs replacing. Battery cables are by far the most common cause of slow cranking in 6-volt tractors but of course a worn starter or weak ignition can be a hindrance. The starter buttons that mount on many of the 6-volt starters can also give problems. And for some reason, 6-volt batteries don’t last very long for me, about a year. And the flat woven copper ground cables are not good conductors so get some new, round, stranded, copper battery cables, at least 1 gauge, and keep them as short as feasible. A good starter, a hot battery, and a strong ignition and your 6-volt will start. Whatever the difficulty, it always pays to repair the 6-volt system and keep the tractor original preserving the value. But if you must convert it to 12 volts, please save the old generator and other parts so that if it is sold one day and somebody like me buys it, I can put it back the way it was. Richard Cook wrote on Saturday, December 15, 2007 (PST): I enjoyed reading your article, but I wonder if you might be able to help with my situation. My tractor is an Allis-Chalmers WD-40 gasoline with a 6-volt system. I would like to upgrade it to a 12-volt, but don't know exactly what I would need to make the conversion. Of course I would need a 12-volt alternator, but I assume I would then need a different starter. Thanks for any help you might be able to give. m. guier wrote on Saturday, June 14, 2008 (PDT): Can anyone tell me what model Datsun alternator was used in this conversion? I am having a problem finding an alternator with a small enough diameter to fit on a 165 massey and still have enough room to adjust the belt without altering the mounting brackets. A model number of the alt. or make and model of the car it was used in would be a big help. Thanks. Chris wrote on Thursday, October 02, 2008 (PDT): this is a grest article,it was just what I was looking for..thanks duncan wrote on Wednesday, October 07, 2009 (PDT): thanks, very good info, that i needed vatos wrote on Monday, January 04, 2010 (PST): Could i get a full diagram of how you have it wired up including ammeter.Its to be used on tea-20 with 2 wire alternator. tom gannon wrote on Monday, January 09, 2012 (PST): would love a sketch as i intend to install an alternator to am.f.35x vic wrote on Thursday, March 01, 2012 (PST): Very well done converted old 1964 Ford 4000 to a gm style alternator works way better than original thanks for the info mike porter wrote on Friday, June 20, 2014 (PDT): I have a local rebuilder who makes 1 wire g.m. alternators with a 650 rpm exciter, so when you start up the tractor, you don't have to rev the motor up to 1500+ rpm's to get it to charge. he also does this to the smaller g.m. alternators such as on the 1990's s 10 and cavalier Chevrolets. i'm sure that any rebuilder can do this for you, and they're 65.00 to 125.00, so they're affordable and reliable for work tractors and pullers. James F. Howell wrote on Monday, September 12, 2016 (PDT): finally found a answer to hook what to what. thanks AL Egore wrote on Saturday, April 14, 2018 (PDT): How do you read ram since on generator it uses cable driven rim Guage from the back of the gen.

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