There is a ball bearing roller on the opposite side of the blade from the tapered wheel that is mounted on the engine, and when you squeeze the handle on top it both opens the throttle and moves the wheel over against the blade to pinch it between the rollers and turn it. There are a series of rollers around the frame that carry the inside of the blade. For blocking they were easy. You set it down with the back end of the leg on the ground and the tooth hooked into the wood, and just squeezed the handle and pushed the saw down (spring on the leg pushed it back up). Felling a tree was not so easy, you had to hold the whole saw up on it's side and push it into the tree. Picking up the blocks close to where it was being used was a pain, it was pretty loud and the exhaust (no muffler) came out the side via a small rectangular elbow and blew right at the person picking up the blocks.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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