Just to make life really difficult I will throw in the fact that all torque wrenches are wrong. The real goal with threaded fasteners is tension, not torque. The standard for calibration is generally a Skidmore Wilhelm device that measures tension hydraulically. Theoretically the best calibration would be given with the exact fastener to be used inserted and tightened till the exact tension desired is reached, which is then the correct torque. But as no two threads are the same and once used a bolt is considered changed and unusable.....
So, unless you carefully clean and lubricate new fasteners for every application and calibrate to the desired tension within a certain time, temperature, and humidity range you are in all likelihood not going to get very close anyway.
All that being said, I have a couple of old beam types and a few clickers that I use. It is more important to me that the emphasis be placed upon the final effect, the assembly, rather than the reading on a wrench. I check the threads and lube them lightly, chase off any damaged threads, torque multiples to a pattern, and pay attention to the heat.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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