Most of the folks here had a lot of valid points. I just built a house in central Michigan and there were a number of things I found out. I didn't want block because I had the same in a house in CT and I think it is too porous. Anything above ground seemed like the air just blew through it. Looked into poured 8" and the code required foam insulation around the whole outside. By the time I added it up the foam block mold system only costs 10% more and left the interior walls ready for drywall and finishing. Very cost effective and warm (code required the drywall over the foam even if you don't intend to finish the basement; $100 extra). One thing we learned was the veins of clay present. Excavating below them adds the risk of hitting ground water. A neighbor poured a foundation with the intent of finishing the frameing at a later date. Zoning made him build a fence around it as though it was a swimming pool. If cost is a factor you might want to look into a wood foundation. As far as I know they are approved in, at least, parts of Michigan. A friend of mine went that way and was very happy with it.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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