The integral valve is double-acting. Based on my limited knowledge of hydraulics, I'm thinking the it is an open center valve as the pump can idle with the valve in the center position. If that's the case, then pressure/heat problems will only surface during actual movement of the piston, IE long enough to raise and lower the bed.
Unless I'm missing something (and I probably am...) I don't see this as a problem.
I'm building this out of whatever I have laying around from years of being a packrat. If it were being purpose-built, I've used a shorter stroke cylinder and a smaller pump.
Not knowing what I was doing, I was worried about turning the pump fast enough. Obviously, that's not going to be a problem. I'll swap the smaller gear onto the engine and scrounge around and see what I can find for a larger gear for the pump.
I also have a friend digging through his stash thinking he may have a flow control valve somewhere.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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