In my experience, the front tine tillers do buck pretty bad, and are especially bad when you are trying to break sod. On the other hand, I like a front tine better for weeding between rows, since the rear tine tillers are so long and hard to turn around at the end of the row.
When I put in a new garden plot in an area that had previously been lawn, I had a neighbor come over with his smallish JD tractor and PTO driven rototiller. He was able to totally prepare the garden area for planting in about half an hour. I had been trying to break ground with my old Troy-Bilt Horse for several hours before that, and I was pretty tired of having it jump around and lunge ahead. The neighbor charged me $50 and drove the tractor to my place. I thought it was $50 very well spent.
I suppose that eventually I would have got the area prepared with the Troy-Bilt, but I bet it would have taken many hours to get the garden as smooth and deeply tilled as my neighbor was able to do in half an hour.
Years ago, my Dad had front drive tillers, and we did our gardens with them after first plowing deeply with a moldboard plow. It was hard work then and I am a lot older now. No Thanks! I think that breaking sod with a front drive tiller would be a real nightmare...so I would be looking for someone who has the correct machinery to do it for me. Good luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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