Re: Re: Re: 7014 v. 6013 welding rods

Posted by T_Bone on January 29, 2003 at 08:43:33 from (65.59.178.47):

In Reply to: Re: Re: 7014 v. 6013 welding rods posted by Skinner on January 29, 2003 at 03:42:29:

Hi Skinner,

Moister and 7018 don't mix, acutally all electrodes can be effected, and you can tell when the rod has to much moister when your get tinny pin holes in the surface of the weld and theres poping in the molten puddle. This would be the moister turning into steam leaving prosity with-in the weld and not only on the surface making a very weak weld.

To dry electrodes I have built a small 14"x14"x18" SM box and used a 100w light bulb, holds 200lbs of electrodes. This will produce about 275*f with the door closed and is enough to dry the electrodes over time.

Vertical welding is fairly easy to do once you get the hang of it. Electrode angle pays a very important roll, about 5* to 10*, 0* works best sometimes, and you need your head below the rod to see the weld puddle with a close arc length and a slightly faster travel speed.

Now most welders watch the "slag" in the molten puddle and not the molten puddle it's self and that causes the molten puddle to fall or the weld puddle will slump before the weldor moves the rod upward. Thats why we teach you to weld flat first so you can reconize the weld puddle from the slag. If you can see the difference in the weld puddle and the slag, then do not let the slag take your attenion away from the motlen puddle in the vertical position like it does to most weldors.

A vertical weave bead is made by starting a weld puddle then moving horzontial, 8 rod diameters max, then pause slightly to deposit more weld, move up 1/2 rod diameter, then back to the starting point. The horzontial move should be fairly fast so if the weld slumps in the center then your moving too slow. If the ends are under cut then your not pausing long enough at the corners. Taking a stratch awl making two vertical lines will help you keep the weld straight and uniform width.

The 8 times the rod diameter maxmium is so the slag does not cool before you return to deposit more metal.

My method of teaching is to have the welder try to move too fast, too slow, long arc length, short arc length, rod angle at 45*, at 5*, too many amps, too low of amps, etc: and pay close attention to the changes each makes in the weld. That way when you have a problem you will remember what caused that problem and you will know how to correct it. I reverse teach, "what makes a bad weld". If you know what makes a bad weld then you will know how to correct it when you make that mistake.

This is also where your plastic welding lens will fail you the most. You now have two weld puddles due to the distortion of the plastic lens. Which one is the true weld puddle?

T_Bone

Follow Ups:

• Re: Re: Re: Re: 7014 v. 6013 welding rods Skinner 18:39:15 01/31/03 (0)
• Re: Re: Re: Re: 7014 v. 6013 welding rods Skinner 18:39:14 01/31/03 (0)

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