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Re: 7014 v. 6013 welding rods
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Posted by T_Bone on January 28, 2003 at 10:24:32 from (65.57.36.135):
In Reply to: 7014 v. 6013 welding rods posted by Matthew on January 26, 2003 at 19:05:46:
Hi Matthew, You've asked some very good questions. Tom has suggested a very good website for techincal learning and alot of your questions would be best answered there as one answer leads to another good topic. You will benefit more there from your research. In the home/commerical welding shop it would be best to pay attention to joint design, joint preperation, cleaning welds between passes, arc length, electrode angle, etc; than worrying about using 7014 or 6013. why? All are good electrodes and will certifiy so then it becomes what your comfortable with. Example;
I welded a 2" square solid steel hitch stem thats going to pull 20,000lb trailers on a regular basis that I welded with 6013. Am I concerned about the welds? absolutly not! as I took extreame care with joint design, joint preperation, cleaning welds between passes, arc length, electrode angle while making the welds which is more important than my electrode selection. I should add that I have 35yrs of extensive background in welding, metallurgy, engineering and the above example would not be for an inexperienced welder to make or design. Before I need my flame suit on, joint design played a major roll in the above weldment. Although each electrode 7018,7014, 6013 has it's own charteristics all will do just fine for any type of home welding or most commerical welding. Techinicaly 7014 and 7018 will be the strongest as it's rated for 70,ooopsi tensil strength but I'll let you read about that. Restarting 7018. Here's a trick that will help. When your done with the pass and going to restart the bead with the same rod, with two fingers break off the flux on the end of the rod. This will expose the metal tip making a restart very easy. I've posted my e-mail addy for additional comments. I get too much spam to post it all the time. T_Bone
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