First off this is not an attack at you. This last statement of yours had got me thinking. You have one of 3 things to think about. #1 Not all Hydro/electric units are the same and some draw a heck of a lot more amps then others. #2 your unit has a weak motor so it draws way to many amps. #3 The hyd oil you use is thicker then the units I have owned over the years I have owned 3 of these hydro/electric units and none of them had that big an map draw. One was on a toter and was used for hooking up the mobile home and we did not run the engine when doing so and never a starting problem. Another on on a Dodge 3/4 ton truck and it was used on a dump bed and we would lift that bed all the time with out the engine running and never a high amp draw and an engine start problem. But these units used ATF as the hyd fluid and that means thin oil so any one of those come into play so what you say maybe right in your case but not in all cases. Understand what I am saying so we both are likely to be right at some point so we both can not know for sure which of use it correct
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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