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Product Review

Kreem Brand Fuel Tank Liner

You may have run into the situation where your gas tank had reached the age where its condition was causing you real problems. Either it would start leaking from rust holes or possibly just keep clogging your carburetor or fuel lines and causing erratic running. This is not uncommon in tractors that sit for many years and develop moisture which leads to rust. Eventually the rust flakes off enters the fuel lines and finally enough metal oxidizes to allow very small leaks.

This condition has occurred on a few machines that we have had and fortunately we were able to borrow the technique used at the local motorcycle shop. The product that we have used is called Kreem though there are others on the market, this one was recommended and available. This particular product is sold in three parts, a bottle of etch, dryer, and sealer.

We were fortunate enough to start the process with stern warnings from those that had used this type of product before. The horror stories all go about like this. "I used that stuff in my Harley and it worked for awhile but then started separating from the tank. I had to throw that tank away after it started leaking again cause I couldn't even get the big chunks out of the tank.". Since we had heard many success stories that belied this type of experience, we decided to find out why it worked so well for some and so poorly for others. The answer lies in the effort put into preparing the tank before you actually use the product. Here is the process we uncovered.

While oxidation is slowed by sealing the tank, it will not be stopped completely as long as there is rust left and additionally getting rid of the rust and sealing the inside while leaving the outside unsealed lets the rust continue to do its damage. The thing to remember is to get rid of all the major rust before even starting the etching and sealing.

  • Sand the external surface wherever there is rust that has come through, usually where the pin holes are located.
  • Steam wash the inside of the tank.
  • Place a handful of roofing nails inside the tank and shake well. This knocks loose any chunks of rust that are being persistent, the etch won't get rid of these, so get them first.
  • Steam wash again.
  • Immediately when dry, use the etch according to the instructions.
  • Completely dry the inside using the alcohol based dryer provided in the kit.
  • Seal the inside using the sealer.
  • After allowing time to completely dry, use an epoxy such as JB Weld on the external surfaces that showed signs of rust.

When you use the actual sealer, be sure that the tank, the Kreem, and the ambient temperature is about 70 degrees. This is difficult since it implies that you must do this job during the summer. The reason is that the fumes are toxic and thus when you pour in the sealer you want to do it outside. Be sure that you coat the tank carefully but pour off the excess or it will become too thick which may contribute to separation. Also if the temperature is too low, you will find that it also coats too thickly.

We found that this product was a life saver for a couple of machines since finding replacement tanks that did not have leaks or dents was nearly impossible.

Additional Information: Kreem is made by "Kreem Products" (P.O. Box 399, Somis CA). Phone number is (805) 386-4470. Information on product container reads: "Kreem Fuel Tank Liner is designed for use as a preventive maintenance product in metal tanks, new and old; containing gasoline, gasohol, or diesel. Kreem Tank Liner has a unique formulation with extremely rapid set-up, that prevents leakage from hairline cracks and seam pinholes by coating the tank's inner surface with a fuel resistant elastomer. Not for plastic tanks. Kreem is NOT compatible with all fiberglass tanks. You must spot test before use."

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