I just discovered this thread. Wow, that finish is severe. I would strip those parts and start over.
I do classic car restoration and all my own painting. I've been painting since 1990. My best advice, don't try to save money or skimp on paint/autobody products or tools. With all the manual labor involved it's penny wise and dollar foolish to skimp.
I own two Sata paint guns. I use PPG Acrylic Urethane (single stage on tractor stuff, and car restoration stuff(except the body sheet metal where I use Base/Clear Acrylic urethane. Those enamels are old time. I wouldn't deal with them. Acrylic Urethane will be tougher, have a better finish, if far more resistant to gas, bake fluid and more. One of the keys to restoration is proper metal prep and sealing the metal with a good Epoxy sealer primer like PPG DPLF.
You are breaking a cardinal rule of mixing hardeners and reducers of one company with the paint of another. An unintended chemical reaction is the likely result.
You have proven why it pays to use better products and be consistent in using one product line.
It stinks when you have to start over, but it's also a learning lesson. I think you'll also find if you take my advice, you'll end up with a finish that far exceeds you experience so far. PPG Single Stage Acrylic urethane can be flattened to adjust the gloss level to what you desire also.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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