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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Re: Need Help Just Starting to Paint my own tractors..

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Posted by CNKS on October 26, 2012 at 06:42:20 from (

In Reply to: Need Help Just Starting to Paint my own tractors.. posted by JohnDeereJimOhio on October 25, 2012 at 19:32:22:

I paint in a 30x30 square foot area. I have two explosion proof exhaust fans in the wall, current price probably about $500 each. I have gas heat that I turn off when spraying and try to maintain at least 65 degrees. Even with the fans on there is some drift of the paint dust and fumes back into the building, unless I open the walk in door all the way. So I turn the heat off when painting and back on between coats. I try to compromise by getting most of the fumes out and still maintaining the temperature. How fast the building cools depends on the temperature. It is currently 27 degrees here, the temp in the building is 70 degrees -- I am not painting today, if I was I might be able to get one coat on depending on how many parts I have, then leave the heat on for a few minutes to get the temp back up. My tractors are completely disassembled and all parts are painted seperately, so due to space limitations (parts cannot be moved until the next day), it takes several days to do the painting. JD paint is not the worlds best paint. I use PPG Omni base clear. PPG Omni epoxy followed by the color coat, followed by the clear on the stripped chassis and all parts. The sheet metal gets a sandable urethane surfacer over the epoxy. PPG epoxy uses a catalyst that does NOT contain isocyanates, the color coat does not use hardener, hardener for the urethane surfacer and clear coat do use hardener and a supplied air system is mandatory--if I spray only a small amount without it I feel the effects. Single state urethane and hardener also require supplied air. I have so far use 7 painting sessions on my Farmall Super M, not including the rims and sheet metal -- it is not a one day job.


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