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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Re: painting question


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Posted by CNKS on July 03, 2012 at 18:27:45 from (216.144.104.128):

In Reply to: Re: painting question posted by mark basinger on July 03, 2012 at 17:57:36:

2. Sand blasting sheet metal will warp it, even with my small sandblaster. I have done it. I use a fiber wheel on an electric drill, Makes deep scratches that the surfacer will fill.
3. Wax and grease remover is the last step before painting.
4. I don't do acid washes, I use Picklex 20 if I think it is necessary, it just needs to have the residue mostly scuffed off, wax and grease remover will get the rest of the residue. Do not wash it off. It will neutralize any rust in the bottom of pits if you have any after the fiber wheel. I do not use any phosphoric acid product on cast, that includes Picklex 20 because it gets in the pores and might lift the paint. It didn't the one time I used it, but I haven't used it since.
7. 2 coats of epoxy primer, do NOT sand it. You sand the surfacer. Go to PPG's website look up refinishing and print off whatever you are using. Follow the instructions for each step you do, you will not go wrong.
8. Surfacer is sanded with 400 grit, will likely require more than one application and sanding to get a flat surface, use only on the sheet metal. By application I mean 3 coats 10-15 minutes apart, let dry and sand.
If you have supplied air use PPG Omni MP 182 for the surfacer, Omni MTK single stage acrylic urethane for the topcoat, 3 coats. I use base clear for the topcoats, which work best for me. Both 182 and MTK require hardener and supplied air for your lungs. If you do not have supplied air, use MP 181 surfacer and MAE acrylic enamel. You will be happier with urethane, though.


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