Just my $.02 , you seem to be somewhat inexperienced in painting a complete truck so I would advise one little change of your process. Go ahead and base coat everything. Then section off the truck in three sections , front clip , top/cab , box and bag off and clear in three sections with a day (or more) dry time in between. You can use a quicker drying catylist/reducer and control your work a lot better. Less runs and less dirt which means less sanding and buffing after. It will be just as quick and a better job. If you paint the complete truck at one time you will need a slow dry catylist/reducer to allow for overspray melt in , especially if you are less experienced and can't just "race' around it like you have done it a million times. Sanding and buffing is a band-aid and you will more than likely still see the "worms" where the runs were even if you block sand them out. Show cars don't get painted "all in one" for a many reasons , that is one of them. Just suppose you had painted it all the day you did the tailgate? 'Nuf said?
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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