I believe that the use of a surfacer on cast items is a waste of effort and money since that type of surface is naturally rough to a certain extent. Whether you should use one on the sheetmetal depends on how smooth the surface actually is after your bodywork and application of the epoxy. Generally, you'd want to use a surfacer on the sheetmetal. However, I have found if the surface is sandblasted and there are no imperfections other than a typical blast profile, that a surfacer is not needed provided the epoxy application (two coats) flows well and is nice and smooth. If there are any imperfection or roughness that is courser that a 360/400 grit sandscratch, then a surfacer should be used. When in doubt, always use a surfacer within the epoxy window and final sand with 360/400 grit. That way, you will have prepared the surface best for a smooth, high-gloss topcoat finish.
My preference is always to prepare and finally paint all parts individually, not just the sheetmetal, except for a bare chassis. That's the only way to properly cover the backsides of the many items that are attached to a tractor. Or even get a decent coverage of any areas of the main chassis that are partially or completely blocked by attached components. Some don't go to that trouble but that's up to you.
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Today's Featured Article - Madison's County - by Anthony West. Philip Madison has been a good friend of mine for quite some time. He has patiently suffered my incessant chit chat on the subject of tractors for longer than I care to remember, and on many occasions he has put himself out, dropped what ever it was he was doing, to come and lend a hand cranking handles, or loading a find onto a trailer. Although he himself has never actually owned or restored a tractor, he was always enthusiastic and always around helping with other peoples projects.
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