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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Board

Re: 2n project

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Posted by Bruce (VA) on December 25, 2013 at 06:44:23 from (

In Reply to: 2n project posted by slifnom on December 25, 2013 at 04:53:13:

Before you start, you need to have the 'end game' in mind. You can spend some money ($100-200) getting it unstuck & running only to find out it's got a bad block, etc. So keep that in mind.

Do not attempt to turn the engine over. You could break the rings if they are rusted to the cylinder walls. Pull all plugs, add a cup or more of automatic transmission fluid (ATF ) or Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in each cylinder. Pull both valve covers & soak everything w/ MMO or ATF. Scrub it all down w/ a wire brush. Remove the 15/16 hex nut to the right of the water pump. This is where your oil gallery is for the valves/lifters is. Don't lose the little spring under the nut. Use an oil squirt can to put about a cup of oil in here. Replace the spring & nut. Then, start looking for mouse/hornet nests in places like the tail pipe & carb breather hose. Wait at least 2 or 3 days before you do anything, then try & hand crank the engine. (w/o spark plugs) If it does not turn by hand, repeat everything you just did, ie, more MMO or ATF. If it still won’t turn by hand, remove the starter (see tip # 36) and use a BF screwdriver or jack handle on the ring gear teeth to try & turn it over. Once you get it to turn by hand, then change all the fluids (check tips 3 & 4 at the link below for info on the tranny/pump/rear end fluid change) Fluids include oil & filter, oil in the air cleaner, and 50/50 water & antifreeze. Grease all fittings. Replace the points, plugs, condenser, rotor & cap. If the wires are cracked & frayed, replace them as well, or you will spend days trying to find that one short. Clean all connections bright & shiny. Put a couple of tablespoons of oil in each cylinder to help lubricate the cylinder walls & increase start-up compression. Before you put the valve covers back on, coat everything again w/ oil . Clean the fuel screens in the carb & sediment bowl. Spray the carb good w/ carb cleaner. (Some people can get a carb to work like this after setting for years. Some people win the lottery. I have never got away w/ an old carb working; plan on a rebuild). Drain the gas or whatever is in the tank. Add at least two gallons of fresh gas & make sure you have a good flow by removing the bolt at the bottom of the carb. Keep some starting fluid or propane handy. You will need a new battery; it needs a good battery to power the ignition as well as turn over the starter. Just before you try to start it, prime the oil pump by removing the 15/16" hex nut again, & use w/ 90w gear oil this time. Spin the starter over (key off) & make sure you have oil pressure showing on the gauge. Remember, you filled the cylinders w/ oil, so it will smoke a lot when it gets going. Once you get it running, just let it idle for a few minutes while you check closely for leaks (oil, water, gas) & make sure it has good oil pressure. Then, it should be run at variable RPM. Internal parts that would normally have a film of oil have gotten dry. Run the engine up to around 1500 RPM and back down, put it in gear and make a few laps around the yard at various speeds. This will quickly get some heat into the oil and splash oil everywhere it needs to be inside the engine. Continue to watch for leaks, smoke or other problems (like no brakes).

Good luck & check back!


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