Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 
Marketplace
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts
Salvage
Auction 

Community
Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Galleries
Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Articles
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs
Glossary

Miscellaneous
Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

  
Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Board

Re: Early 8N Valve Removal/Replacement


[ Expand ] [ View Replies ] [ Add a Reply ] [ Return to Forum ]

Posted by mhb@ufe on October 17, 2013 at 05:43:50 from (24.39.22.34):

In Reply to: Early 8N Valve Removal/Replacement posted by Jamie Svrcek on October 16, 2013 at 15:50:17:

Here is a post from Zane on that procedure.
VALVES REMOVE FROM THE N ENGINE
First remove the manifold and the tappet covers.

Fabricate a tool from a big heavy common screwdriver that can be inserted into the valve ports and used to push the valve guides down enough to remove the horseshoe retainers that hold the valve guides at the bottom of the valve guide just above the spring.

When the retainer is removed then it is possible to drive the whole valve assembly out the top of the engine up through the valve port .

The spring keepers can then be removed and the valve assembly disassembled.

Seals are only used on the intake valve guide and they will be the ones that are the hardest to remove from the block because of the old seal being like hardened glue on the outside of the old intake valve guide. Only use guide seals on the intake when reinstalling the valve assemblies.

Name: ZANE
E-Mail: wzsherman@aol.com
Subject: Re: Removing valves from engine
Body of Message:
The best way I have found to get the valve assemblies out of the block is to use a big flat/spade screwdriver that has been ground down about 1/8 inch or so just up from the tip end about a 1/4" inch or so and long enough space ground down to let the cut out come out past the side of the block.
Place the screwdriver/prybar into the valve port on top of the valve guide close to the valve stem and pull up on the screwdriver/prybar to push the guide down enough to pull out the horse shoe keeper.
Next take that same screwdriver and place the tip end on the spring close to the end of the valve guide and smack it a few good ones with a hammer to drive the guide/valve assembly out the top.
Once it is out the top you can depress the spring and take the keepers off to dis assemble the units. Don't loose the little cup thingies that are on the bottom of the exhaust valves if it has rotating exhaust valves in it.
Only the intake valve guide should have seals installed on them when you go back up. None on the exhaust valve guides.
Acording to Zane
Added on Date: 06:24:39 06/07/06

Mark


Replies:




Add a Reply

:
:
:

:

:

:

:

:

:

Advanced Posting Options

: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.



 
Advanced Posting Tools
  Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List 
Return to Post 

TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Today's Featured Article - It Can't Be Done! - A Tractor Story - by Neil Campbell. I'll never forget the time back when I was a boy baling hay on our Farm in Big Rapid, Michigan. The most memorable event that took place was a trip up the steepest incline on the farm pulling an old New-Idea baler with a pony-motor for power and a haywagon. I had just talked my Dad into buying an old John Deere B with 6-speeds ahead and I was real proud of it, except it was a little smaller than the Case tractor that we normally ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: Rebuilt Injection pump for J D 1010. Call or text for pictures or more imformation.free shipping.U.S. No core charge [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy