Well, many feel more comfortable running two separate wires to their lights and that's fine. Me, I run a good quality wiring harness and be sure to clean the area behind the mounting areas for the lights on the inside of hood. There is a steel backing plate for the headlights that snugs up to the metal there when lights are fastened, and the hood and plate need to make a good electrical connection -i.e. bare metal is best -no painted surfaces or crud buildup. Then, the headlight 1/2-20 hex nut and lockwasher will guarantee a good connection once tightened down. I have never had a problem with my lights using the original one-wire harness method of connecting and I have used my 8N for many night time projects either mowing grass, plowing or discing a field, or plowing snow, and my lights have never failed me. To each his own. As mentioned, you can first try to test the lights to be sure they are not burnt out. Remove bezel, take out lamp, connect wires/test leads from battery to each lamp terminal. Illumination will determine that it is good. Not typically likely you get both lights burning out at the same time UNLESS -you have a 12V battery and are using 6V lamps---so, without this information, I have given you just about all I can offer. FYI -6V sealed bean lamps -p/n 4019...12V sealed beam lamps -p/n 4419.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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