The plugs are new. I reset the points after I ground the screw thickness holding the points in the Dist. It was making contact with the moving part of the points and I think it was shorting them out to begin with. When I pulled the carb apart the main jet, the one that sits front to back at a 45 degree angle was at 2 1/2 turns out so I started at 2 1/2 turns out and the idle screw on the side at 1 1/2 turns out. I'm going to reset the two mixture screws and try again as soon as I get outside. I checked the spark with a timing light I had used for timing my cars in the past and was only getting a spark once in a while so I checked the dist and found the screw holding the points at the adjusting end was being rubbed by the points as they moved back and forth. After I ground the screw down, I had a consistant spark.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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