If the draft spring is far enough out of adjustment it can cause the lift not to function properly. I showed somebody a couple of weeks ago in my tractor. I stood on the lift arms and I would turn the yoke on the plunger by hand. The lift would either not pick up, work perfect, or the arms would stay up and not come down depending on how far you screwed the yoke in or out. The yoke adjustment is what pulls the control fork up against the control lever rod. That adjustment is there to take up the slack as the pad at the top of the fork and the end of the control lever rod wear. You will find that on most tractors the yokes are frozen in place with rust. Get a torch and heat the yoke until it is cherry red and it should turn. Take it completely off and clean the threads real good and apply grease to the threads and reinstall the yoke and take up any slack between the yoke and spring. Check to see if the lift works, if it does hook up an implement and lift it. When the implement is at full lift check the draft spring. You should just barely be able to turn it by hand. If there is more slack than that you need to tighten the yoke some more. Once you have the spring properly adjusted loosen the four bolts on the quadrant and slide it all the way rearward. Measure 2 1/2" from the top of the control quadrant and make a mark on it. Raise the implement all the way up and then move the control levers forward edge to the mark you made. Then take a pry bar and slowly slide the quadrant forward, when the implement starts to drop tighten the four bolts on the quadrant and recheck it because sometimes tightening the bolts will cause it to move. Sorry for being longwinded but that"s the proper way to adjust the lift according to Harry Fergusons shop manual. Yes you could add shims to the spring but why not do it right and be done with it?
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