yummy.. a (possibly) few hundred dollar answer to a 20$ question.
Here's the deal. you are gonna get a few posts each way.
at least one person will tell you that electronic ignition is the only option. world can't rotate ithout it. will add horsepower, guarantee your machine to start in any conditions no matter what, make it an all around mor e reliable tractor. probably restore hair and testosterone , help you loose weight and repair your credit and lower your cholesterol....and other claims that probably aren't true or can not be verified.
On the flip side there are those that simply don't like new tech and won't move forward at all.
here's the middle ground for you and your mechaninc, your wallet, and your skillset to decide.
1, it's a front mountsystem. it has a few issues that always tend to add complication for some.. especially those that aren't particularly clever or andy, or good around any kind of things that involve moving electrons.
2, IF you are going to go EI on a front mount then i suggest that you:
a, start out with a fully functional system that starts and runs good on points, and then go from there. nothing like being arms deep into a non starting project already.. and then complicate it by totally changing the ignition system.
b, convert to a 12v system .. preferably using a gm 10/12si 3 wire alt. and get that and the battery and a new harness in palce and operational. reason for this is. 6v front mount ei is cheesy at best.
3, ok.. you got the alt, and new bat. she starts and charges on 12v and points. runs good, no issues, and you still have 100-200$ to blow. ( and you want a lil more hair and less cholesterol ). go get the 12v ei.. and get the kit that eliminates the square coil and lets you use a real true round coil.
that gets you away from any need for a resistor inthe system.
ei, 12v coil.. etc.
once you get all that in and instaleld and paid for.. you will be pretty good.
PS.. premium set of pints cost about 20$... Many of us that atually clean our ignition tools and check gap onece in a while and are otherwise average or better on maint.. can keep a set of those premium points going for years or decades.
I've got points going over 10ys now.
at that rate.. I'd have to live another 50-100 years to break even on the cost of installing just the basic ei.. not to mentiont he other stuff.
if you count converting all to 12v and whatnot and the ei. I'd probably have to make it another 100-200 years to recoup the conversion and bat and alternator costs, and then get past the break veen number.. :)
so yeah. if you want it.. go for it. don't handicap yourself on a 6v front mount ei. go 12v and ei. start with a running tractor.. and end with one so you aren't troubleshooting 2-3 problems at one time.
nothing like taking a running trator.. converting .. not having charging or ignitin work.. andhave 100-300$ tied up in it.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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