One rolled coat should cover . If your paint is too thin you may get air bubbles , too thick and it may be "lumpy" . A short nap roller would work better .
Test a spot and if you don't like it , wipe it off with a thinner rag , let dry and try again .
Basically paint sticks better to paint . Paint doesn't stick well to metal so primer is used . You only need to prime the bare spots .
Brushing/rolling primer is OK , just make sure it has fully cured before applying paint or you could mechanically mix the two . I have seen red primer and white paint turn to a light pink top coat .
Alkyd w/ hardener would be good for a DIY working tractor .
I use "Paso" or a liquid sander which removes oil , grease , dirt and softens the old paint so the new paint can stick . Just wet a rag and wipe . Keep refolding your rag and change when it gets dirty .
Cast iron doesn't need sanded before priming but smooth metal could use a little roughing up to help the primer stick . Cast iron needs the pores to be free of oils , use soapy water , thinner , or liquid sander .
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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