Do not try to peel out the sleeves if they are cast iron. There is a process that can be used to peel the .040 steel sleeves by starting a screwdriver sharpened to one side to start the sleeve peeling . If this is tried on the cast iron sleeve I just about guarentee a broken block.
Their is a tool that you can use to drive the sleeves out of the bore with. It is best to have the crankshaft removed to insure that you don't damage the journals by striking them. You could have a machine shop fabricate one by turning a piece of round stock just a little larger than the bore of the cylinders. First turn a piece of stock of about 3/4" to about .020" smaller than the bore, then turn half of the blank to about .020" smaller than the bore of the sleeves. Cut about 3/4" from each side of the turned driver so that it will go into the bottom of the sleeve if the crankshaft is still in the engine and with a 10 or 12 lb hammer and a large drift against the tool drive them out the top of the cylinder. Or you can do it the hard way and fabricate a threaded thingy to straddle the top of the cylinder and use it to crank the sleeve out. Not recommended by me!
If it is the thin cast iron .040 sleeve the best way to remove them is to use a cutting torch or heating torch to heat a portion of the sleeve from top to bottom red hot and then allow to cool to room temperature and then the sleeve will almost fall out. This will not damage the cylinder wall as long as you don’t cut through the sleeve and heat the cylinder wall.
If you are a pretty good welder their is an easier way to get the old sleeves out. Lay the block on it's side and with a 6011 1/8" rod run a cold bead from the bottom of each sleeve to the top. Do this about 3 times in each sleeve and allow them to cool to the touch. You can then either pull them out with your hand or catch the bottom edge with a large screwdriver and tap them out. Be careful not to weld through the old sleeve. After you get the old sleeves out lightly hone or sand the bore where the heat from the welding may have cooked the carbon to the bore slightly. Don't hone much. The new sleeves must have an interference fit.
Don't try to drive the new sleeves in with the tool that you fabricated to pull them out with as that tool will split the sleeves when you try to drive them back in.
You can take a piece of flat plate of at least 1/2" thick and that will completely cover the top of the new sleeve plus about 1" or so and drive the new sleeves down till they are even with the deck of the block You will know when they are even with the deck because they won’t go any farther. You can make a better tool to drive the new sleeves by finding an old automobile rear axle that has a flange with the lugs. Drive out the lugs and cut the axle shaft off about 16” long and use it to drive the sleeves home. Works great!
I have recently found a good way to quick freeze the new sleeves that really speeds installation. I bought a fitting to use to refill the small blue propane cylinders sold to use on a torch etc. Now I put the fitting on the BBQ propane bottle, turn it upside down and hold the new sleeve opening under the propane flow when the valve is turned on. I wrap the sleeve with a heavy cloth such as a towel and close the bottom of the sleeve with the cloth and around it. It only takes a few seconds of that liquid propane to freeze it solid. Then quickly start it in the bore and drive it down quickly. Most of the time the sleeve will almost fall down into the bore.
Be absolutely sure there is no source of ignition anywhere near when doing this and do it outside for sure.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
... [Read Article]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
