Ron.......would it surprize you to learn, hi-test gasoline has 'nuttin' to do with yer problem but the WRONG resister has everything to do with yer problem.
You write......."I jumped a wire to bypass the resistor block. IT STARTED. With the wire in place,I let it idle for about 5 mins. while I hooked up my bush hog. When I tried to move the tractor, it stalled. I bought a new resistor block from tractor supply and installed it. The tractor would not start. The only way I could get spark was to connect the two wires that go o the resistor block.(weird) The tractor stated a few times with those wires connected but would only run at low rpms and only for a min or so. while jump starting it it would back fire alot with black smoke"
By by-passing the "infamous ballast resistor" you have BURNED-OUT yer squarecan ignition coil and have WEAK SPARKIES that cause backfiring. And from the picture, I'd even guess that it is NOT the correct resistor.
Don't try to "cheat" the system, its EXPENSIVE. And I'd even guess the invisible corroded POINTS (0.015") were yer original problem. But you FLOODED yer engine trying to start it. Replace yer FLOODED sparkies with AutoLite 437's gapped to 0.025".
ALWAYS remember to turn OFF the under-the-tank glass gas valve when yer thru tractoring or when yer TRAILERING ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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