after straightening the lock washer and loosening the large nut locked by the washer, slide the whole clutch, except the inner hub and outer cage, foward until you can remove the cotter pin from the set screw & the set screw itself. Then pry the inner hub forward enough to remove the key from the shaft (remove it between the inner hub and the outer cage). To get the key out, you will have to move the inner hub forward as far as possible. Only after the key and the setscrew have been removed can you move the shaft rearward. Everything on the rear of the shaft will come out the rear of the tractor. The shaft is usually hard to move. I use a 24" pipe wrench on the rough part of the shaft near the front of the rearend case (ahead of the threads). Pull rearward on the wrench handle (to grip the shaft), then pry the wrench rearward with a large prybar against the front of the case. When sliding the shaft out, there are two brass thrust washers, one on each side of the PTO drive gear that you will need to catch if you don't want to hunt for them. If the marks you make on the shaft with the wrench prevent things from sliding off the shaft, I tap them with a hammer then clean them up after the shaft is out.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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