Just some more thoughts this morning... Once you get things clean inside, you could refill the rear end to just below the relief valve and give it a try again. You should then be able to see for sure if it is the relief valve that is bypassing or something else. If you do get a new valve, I think the older pumps required a lower PSI valve then the newer pumps so be careful which one you get or you might break something if you hit the upper limit on the lift arms. I had the lift cylinder crack on a 50 from end to end when I didn't have the upper limit stop adjusted right and the arms went to far up. I don't know if my relief valve was incorrect or just gummed up but it didn't protect the cylinder! Needless to say, when I replaced the cylinder I got a new valve as well.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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