The aluminum radiator with the fabricated framework would just be for a pulling tractor the way I have it built. It takes an electric fan, an electric water pump, and would probably only be good for cooling about 45 seconds at a time of hard pulling.
The John Deere B radiator Parts are Upper B2602R (it appears ??), sides are B1804R, and the bottom is B2603R. The drain tube nut is out and the threads are clean. All parts for $150 + shipping. I don't sell parts for a business and want to get rid of all these pieces since I have no need for them. .
If you are interested in the B radiator pieces, make sure your part numbers match the above numbers. When I was looking through all the John Deere B radiator parts at the salvage yard, they are not identical and do not mount in the frame the same. Part numbers absolutely need to match for them to fit in the same frame.
About your broken of drill bits...I had broken off a 5/8"-11 tap in the rear housing trying to get out broken off studs and thought I was doomed. In what I considered a last resort, I took a nut and placed it over the hole with the broken off tap, turned the mig welder up to the settings for 3/8" T and basically just poured the fog to it. After cooling down, most likely by divine mercy, the tap turned right out.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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