I do much the same a John T. I just move the speed control lever enough to hold the throttle most of the way open. I don't push the speed control forward enough to place any tension on the governor spring and it's not so far back asto push against the bumper spring either. I suspect John does the same. I then also roll the engine until #1 is past the compression stroke (mag impulse has tripped) and is in the power stroke with #2 compressing. This way all valves are closed. I then open the fuel bowl drain & keep a coffee can under the carb. No water collects in my fuel bowls to freeze & crush my floats. No leaking valves let the gas migrate to the crank case. Valve don't stick open from rust on the shiny spots exposed in the cylinders. The mag's impulse is not wound up more than necessary and the breaker points are open so moisture is less apt to cause problems there.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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