Thank you for your explanation...did you have to pull or move the engine to do so? JD is quoting 8-9 hrs for this type job. I know there is a lot of work to get to the water pump, but ws trying to ascertain the exact time?
My problem was the radiator kept getting low on antifreeze and the engine heat-light would come on, thus the fan would not kick-in...all this time I thought it could be a radiator sensor issue, but when I kept having to replace radiator fluid AND when I checked the oil the oil line was 2-3 times higher than it should be, plus the milky gray color, I knew I had a leak from the cooling system to the crankcase...this explains everything now.
I was just trying to get a handle on the parts: water pump, multiple gasket sets, oil/oil filter and anti-freeze, plus the labor Also, when pulling the engine, I guess you have to set the main belt and anything else tension related that when you pull/loosen the engine, you have to re-tighten again.
And yes, this is a Kawasaki engine...and that is how water gets into the engine.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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