The two chain setup to the tractor drawbar does two things... limits the downward movement of the main mower frame, and, when the three point is lifted, makes the cutter bar lift in relation to the mower frame, first the outer end, then the inner shoe end.
The operator's manual (at least the one I) have explains the downward setting and gives some tips and chain link counts for the lift chain and and lift assist spring and chain to make the mower behave as it's supposed to. With my mower, it took a little tweaking and wrestling with the BIG ornery spring to get it to all work in sync.
There are two basic frame designs, which affect how the narrow or wide configuration setup gets changed. Mine is the older design... swap the drag bar pivot pin to the other hole, then tip over the lift mechanism and re-attach the chains to the holes at the opposite edge of the lift bar.
Here's a photo from a couple of years ago, showing the older-type 350 I have.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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