Posted by Moline_guy on November 04, 2012 at 17:48:49 from (216.249.226.39):
In Reply to: NH 851 Round Baler posted by T in KY on November 04, 2012 at 14:23:23:
Good old balers we have run them since 81. The auto tie is all mechanical, it will trip when the bale is full. Unless you have a sealed up air conditioned cab, you will hear it trip the arms down, feed a little more hay into it so the twine gets tying. Once in a while when a new twine roll starts you have to jump out and give the twine a little pull so the string gets going, other wise you will have to manually retrip it after it finishes it cycle. Sisal twine works best, if you use the nylon/ plasic stuff you will have problems. You move a v belt on the right side under the cover to put more or less twine on. We set ours for the least amount of twine, unless you are selling hay it is enough twine to hold the bale together and move it a few times on the least amount of twine setting. Windrow size doesnt matter, in our experience the bigger the better. If you have the windrow big just so it goes in the pickup, you don't have to wander back and forth and it also makes a nicer looking bale, the smaller the windrow the more back and forth you have to do and the bales don't look as good. You will have to bale the hay a littel tougher than a belt baler, short fine dry hay will spin out in the chamber, they work better on longer hay or hay that is on the green side. We have always run about 300-400 rpms under pto speed, you won't be able to shove hay into as fast at this slower speed but the baler will last a lot longer. Once the rollers on the chains start coming apart its time to put a new chain in. Check your floor rails and make sure they are not worn through, you have to remove the floor chain to put in the rails. Rails and chains are available through s houps catalog cheaper than dealers. The rails will usually run about 1500-2500 bales depending on your windrows. The smaller the windrows the more the baler is running per bale. If you brake the big chain, be careful repairing it, it is heavy. Also keep an eye on the cables that pull on the springs on top, if they are starting to have unravels replace them, if they brake the spring slams down and bends the snot out of the frame. Also check the rollers on the pickup through a small hole on the left side. You can see through the hole as you turn the pickup slowly if these rollers need replacing. If you run them with the rollers out it will eat up the track. Oil your chains once a day.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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