I had 2ea over the years. I reluctantly sold my last one because I stepped up to a 336, which is only slightly faster, uses gears to drive the knotters rather than chains and has rollers in the plungerhead rather than slides. But, here is what to look for: take out all twine and hay. Run it slow to make sure all parts move, grease before hand and oil the slide tracks and chains. Does it have a kicker? I put a #30 kicker on my last one which is hydraulic driven. They came with #2 kickers, which are shaft driven and prone to breaking constantly. That's an ok price IF COMPLETE with a kicker. If you buy it, get a manual and go over every adjustment before you try to run it. Then, it will be dependable.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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