I use one on my 95 so I will try to explain it. On the back ware the lift cylinders hook to the spring lift there are bolt heads on the back side, And on the oppsite side on the spring it is slotted for a big wrench. By tightening the bolt while holding the spring will put more tension on the spring to help the head flout. By loosening that bolt while holding the spring will put less tension on the spring. You need to have the grain head on to adjust the springs up to get them set right.
Caution!!!!!! If both C channels on the spring lift are together and closed carefully check to see if the locks are on or not, Its an 1 1/2"x 3/8" by 6" flat piece on each side on top (of the channels) with a 1/2" bolt in each channel to hold it together as the lock. If it is locked together check to see how tight the springs are adjusted up, If you see 3 or 4 inches of threads and the spring are loosed up and you can take the locks off BUT BE CAREFULL anyway. These spring will lift the head so you should use caution with them.
To set them you tighten the springs evenly (all of them the same) until you see the head raise up. This is ware you have to set it to ware you can raise the grain head up with your hand so your going to have to play with it to set it till your happy with it. No real way to say how much tension it will need for the head to flout that's why you have to play with it.
My 95 I have a 16ft head hume reel with a hart-carter flouting cutter bar on it and my springs have about an inch of thread between the spring and the C channel to give you an idea how to adjust them. With the flouting cutter bar and the spring lift its like having a robot running the head. With both working together its a great set up to work with. I hope your grain head has the skid plate under it other wise you may have a problem getting it to flout like you want. If you need more information or pictures of it to help you out. Bandit
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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