Thank you for all your comments - after taking the carb apart and giving it a good clean I put it all back together, checked fuel flow from bottom of carb, wound up the rope on the front pulley and it fired right up!!!!
Bob - you were right.....and, after getting it going I could not work out for a while why it would not go when I put it into gear and released clutch - then discovered that pin on rear right wheel needed to be pushed in to engage drive to wheel - a bit screeechy at first but off she went! I changed out the oil but left rear transmission oil alone as it looked full and in good condition.
I need to replace the belt on the pto drive at the front of the tractor....can anyone here tell me in fairly simple terms how to do this? I am planning on leaving the main drive on high as it seems to have enough oomph as it is.
It starts so well from the pull rope that I am not going to bother with the other wiring - I am actually thinking of turning the battery area into a small tool storage area.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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