I would leave tab guide as is,all the tabs on my manual/hydro trans idler setups look similar(minus the large amount of rust)If you add a curve to edge you may defeat the function of tab.
If you replace belt(recommended)first have belt measured then buy an oem belt of the correct pn from local toro dealer as he may have the same pn=belt length lookup I have.DO NOT use a plain generic V belt with nylon/rayon cords as these belts strech,glaze & slip after they get hot also the back side is not designed for idler pulley,tabs or any other object to be in contact with backside of belt and you get short life out of belt.
If you look at most wh belts they have a wrapped sheath on belt,this slows/stops belt from streching when it gets hot & prevents glazeing/slipping & makes belt more oil resistant.After finding out length of belt you might want to consider buying a "kevlar" belt at link below,I've been buying belts here for approx 10 yrs,these belts are wrapped but have internal kevlar cords,I have 8 yrs on several eng/trans drive belts & now going into 5th spring with mower drive belt.If you goto website just type v belt in search then go thru listings as same are listed by length/width,just be carefull selecting belt when going thru listings as standard nylon/rayon belts are mixed in listings also.
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Today's Featured Article - Madison's County - by Anthony West. Philip Madison has been a good friend of mine for quite some time. He has patiently suffered my incessant chit chat on the subject of tractors for longer than I care to remember, and on many occasions he has put himself out, dropped what ever it was he was doing, to come and lend a hand cranking handles, or loading a find onto a trailer. Although he himself has never actually owned or restored a tractor, he was always enthusiastic and always around helping with other peoples projects.
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