For all of us that are not you, the front pump on a 4500 (especially) or any tractor really, is located in FRONT of the engine block and (on the 4500) is associated with the hydraulic package. The one in the transmission is called the Transmission Hydraulic Pump, and you'll have a much easier time getting parts and help if you call it that since that's what Ford calls it...the transmission is 4 speed power reversing, but shuttle shift is acceptable since it's not calling it some other thing entirely that exists and is distinct from what you are trying to fix.
One thing to consider (though mine does not match the book, so...) is that there is supposed to be a "driveline disconnect" on these which is supposed to be used if it's towed - the effect of it being disengaged would be no motion. There is also a mechanism (the blocker valve) that keeps the forward/reverse shifter from moving out of neutral above a certain engine speed (if operating correctly.)
Otherwise the troubleshooting procedure starts with stick a gage on (remove lower access cover and attach) and see what the pressures are. At an oil temperature of 100F and 800 RPM, the pressure should be 95-115PSI. At 1500 RPM it should be 145-170PSI - if pressures are low, either the pump or the pressure regulating valve are at fault.
Under troubleshooting, No drive in any gear lists:
a. hydraulic clutch not applying
b. broken shifter forks
c. broken front or rear input shaft, output shaft, or traction coupler.
These transmissions are prone to picking up water.
The transmission and rear end sumps are separate - both should use UTF meeting MC134D, even though they originally had older specs that were different. The package is separate and can use 134D, but can also use straight hydraulic oil.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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