Power from the key switch should go through a 3 amp fuse and then to the voltage stabilizer on the back of the instrument cluster (not voltage regulator). From where the power comes into the stabilizer, there should be another jumper that goes on to the oil pressure and generator warning lamps. The other side of the stabilizer should be connected to the fuel and temperature gauges. The other side of the oil pressure warning light goes to the switch (sender) in the side of the block next to the oil filter, and when the oil pressure is below some minimum pressure the switch closes and completes the ground for the circuit for that warning light. The other side of the generator warning light should go to the connector marked "WL" on the real voltage regulator (block on the engine side of the firewall with additional connections to the generator, key switch and battery), and when the generator is putting out enough voltage the regulator keeps the current from flowing through that warning lamp, but when the generator is not putting out a minimum amount of voltage then current flows and the lamp lights up. The other sides of the fuel and temperature gauges go on to their respective senders, which supply a variable resistance to ground, with the fuel level sender varying its resistance as the float moves up and down and the temperature sender varying its resistance as the temperature varies up and down.
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Today's Featured Article - Madison's County - by Anthony West. Philip Madison has been a good friend of mine for quite some time. He has patiently suffered my incessant chit chat on the subject of tractors for longer than I care to remember, and on many occasions he has put himself out, dropped what ever it was he was doing, to come and lend a hand cranking handles, or loading a find onto a trailer. Although he himself has never actually owned or restored a tractor, he was always enthusiastic and always around helping with other peoples projects.
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