A couple of years ago I had the same issue.It just happened that I had the sheet metal off of my 641 to do some work and I notied that my original tank had some rust underneath and this area was leaking in addition to the leaking original petcock. After weighing pros and cons, I took the easy (but more $) way of ordering a new tank. My new tank came from this site, and is actually a NAA tank. The tank has provision for mounting the valve in the 601-series location in the middle of the tank or to the drivers right in the NAA location.(just inside the hood) I decided to mount the cutofff valve (an NAA type valve that I also got from this site) on the right side in the NAA location, using the supplied plug to seal the mid-tank mounting location. In order to do this, I had to fabricate a new fuel line. After mocking the fuel line up with a piece of heavy wire, I had both the length and shape of my new line determined. The local parts store supplied an appropriate size and length of steel brake line and a cheap bending tool. (fittings were already on the line) 30 minutes or so of fiddling with the line and we were ready to go.In addition to the strainer bulb on the NAA valve, I also left the strainer next to the carbuerator in place. Things to watch: be sure you do not let the line contact the valve cover or manifold and also make sure that the line is entirely "downhill" to help prevent vapor lock.Thats really about all there is to it. I now have a good tank and a reliable fuel line/petcock assembly that does not leak! Even though this is not the "original" way it was done, to me it is a great improvement. The valve is now easy to reach, can be opened and shut without tools and has leaked not one drop in the past year. The original 601 fuel valve was NOT one of Ford's "Better Ideas". You will never have anything but aggravation with it. The CNH ones are junk and over $50, the Tractor supply ones are Chinese Junk and not worth whatever they charge for 'em. What would I have done if my original tank had been good? I dont know because there in my opinion there is really not a good answer. I considered solutions as drastic as welding up the original bung and fitting a threaded pipe to accept a Pingel or HD petcock, but then I would of had to use a rubber line, which I am afraid of in this application because of the location of the carb in relation to the manifold and becaues I really dont feel all that good about welding a gas tank. I know that folks do it but they also hang glide and bungee jump... just sayin'.. Sorry for the long post.
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Today's Featured Article - It Can't Be Done! - A Tractor Story - by Neil Campbell. I'll never forget the time back when I was a boy baling hay on our Farm in Big Rapid, Michigan. The most memorable event that took place was a trip up the steepest incline on the farm pulling an old New-Idea baler with a pony-motor for power and a haywagon. I had just talked my Dad into buying an old John Deere B with 6-speeds ahead and I was real proud of it, except it was a little smaller than the Case tractor that we normally
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