I rebuilt my hydraulics one summer for a blown piston seal ring. I replaced all the gaskets in there thinking it would be a good idea. Worked good for a while then I blew out the gasket like you did the next spring while disking. I think the bouncing weight on the three point over rough ground is tough on the hydraulics.
I pulled it all apart again and found that the studs were loose. I had put the nuts on tight but the studs in the houseing were loose. Fluid pressure then blew out the gasket.
I removed the studs, tapped out the holes till they were good and clean, degreased everything, and then re-installed a new gasket using Permatex gasket sealer (#1 I think, the real sticky stuff in the can.) I then used new studs and torqued and loctited them into the housing. I then used new nuts and torqued them down to the max torque specified for the stud size. I have not had a problem in several years now. Also, make sure mounting surfaces are spotless and de-greased before re-assembly.
Good luck, not a hard job but frustrating when you have to do it repeatedly.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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