It's stamped into the flat spot that faces upwards on the transmission bell housing just toward the rear of the tractor from the starter. There should be 3 numbers stamped into that flat spot. The first number should be the model number (not 2000, but a coded model number that says exactly which engine, PTO and transmission options the tractor had). The second number should be the Unit Number, or production code, which will tell you exactly what day the tractor rolled off the assembly line. The third number is the serial number and should start with a letter, either A, B or C, depending on which factory it was assembled at, followed by a 6 digit number.
If you're lucky, those same numbers might still be on a foil sticker on the under side of the right side hood panel as well. If that sticker's still there it will also have the production codes for the engine, transmission, hydraulic lift and hydraulic pump assemblies as well.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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