Gen II TW 35...oohh...not fun :-( You thought the wheel wedges were tough...
Steering motor needs to come out - no other way around it. Remove whatever it takes to get the motor out, which may include: engine mount hydraulic pump, windshield washer reservoir, top engine hood, rear engine support bracket, etc.
Before you remove the motor, find out EXACTLY where it's leaking, unless you want to replace every seal inside that thing. USUALLY they leak on the bottom cap, but they can leak out the top as well by the input shaft.
Clean, and I mean CLEAN the motor as good as you can. You want NO dirt inside of it, or it WILL hang up. TORQUE the bolts to SPEC when reassembling, or it WILL bind up.
Wonder why it leaks? Oil gets too hot. This is a common problem on the TWx5 series. It was never an issue on the earlier TWs, and it used to stump me until I thought about it hard. The TWx5 series tractors used viscous fan clutches; the earlier ones used solid fans. The solid fans pushed way more air than the viscous fans ever did, keeping the PS system cooler.
If it was my tractor, I would plumb a cooler into the PS return circuit. I have done this on a TW25 that operated in a hot climate and had repeat issues with the steering motor leaking.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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