If it is from AGCO it is the same spec as the original ones. I do prefer the Piston Ring type, they stand a lot more wear and tear. The fact that they do leak is a good thing as it helps lube all around the hydraulic system. When you say it leaks, just how much fluid loss are you getting, drips are OK as long as it isn"t a constant flow. If you fit new Rings into the old cylinder, it may leak for a while until it beds -in, but the Pump is capable of handling a leak like that, so really you won"t know if it is leaking or not. The real test is mounting a 2 bottom plow, with the oil hot and switching off the Pump and see how long it takes to drop. You have to remember when you do this you are not doing a full drop test as the link arms will be halfway when the plow is on the ground, so to get a true figure it should drop all the way down. What I would do is build the system and check just how much you are losing from the Lift Cylinder when it is under pressure with an implement of 600lbs weight. Drips are OK constant streams need to be watched and should it be running like this then use the tractor for a while to allow the Rings to bed-in and check again in a few months time. A lot of people think that there should never be an oil leak from these hydraulics which is wrong, it does serve a purpose. Regarding the grit etc, it is the Pump that you need to think about more than the Lift Cylinder, this is the critical and expensive part, what you need to do is keep the oil changed every 12 months, do it when it is hot and it will wash out all the crud that maybe in there. Check the Rubber Boot on the Gear Change and fit a new one to prevent water getting in, also you should change the Felt seal under the Draft Spring, this is always forgotten usually because it is rusted and you can"t take it apart easily, but it needs to be done. Soak the seal in oil overnight and plaster the inside of the Draft Control with molybdenum grease, keep the thread on the yoke adjuster clean and adjust it often so that it wont stick. Don"t try to force it off if it is stuck or you will bend the internal control fork. Email me direct if you need to do....John(UK)..fergusontractors@hotmail.com
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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